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PostPosted: August 19th, 2018, 3:22 pm 
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Hey folks, here is a video of the Swift Caspian Sea Kayak I picked up off kijiji last fall - finally got a chance to put it in the water today. Wondering about whether or not the gear compartments are supposed to have a gasket - looks like there might have been one fitted at some point but it is obviously gone now.

Just right to 1:30 if you want to just see my question about the gasket.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ve_QLRrNkps


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PostPosted: August 19th, 2018, 4:47 pm 
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Location: Burns Lake, BC
I don't think it has a gasket.
It's just rolled to give it strength and provide a baffle shape to keep forced water out.

I do think there is a neoprene cover (like a cockpit cover) that would stretch over the opening and then the cap is held on top of that.

I'll bet you don't need it though.


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PostPosted: August 19th, 2018, 5:01 pm 
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Oh I should look into covers - maybe even making something from silnylon or something like that.

A friend with 3 kayaks was saying his basically have a bead of silicone around the inside of the lid that seals down with pressure against the compartment edge.

I know from looking at the design closely that it should shed water no problem while paddling. Should I be worrying about how water tight it is if I roll it?


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PostPosted: August 20th, 2018, 7:43 am 
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I had the big brother to the Caspian Sea.. Its a 1990's boat. It had neoprene covers ( thick) that first went on over the hole and then the glass caps were secured on top.

Silnylon will be useless. You need a gasket at the very least.. Something compressible.

I could roll it with the neoprene and cover assembly without getting water in the hatches.

Yes you do need a good substantial neoprene cover.. Otherwise its a sieve.


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PostPosted: August 20th, 2018, 11:59 am 
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Your Caspian Sea appears to be missing the seat. There is, or once was, a molded seat pan attached to the drops on either side of the cockpit.

Those seats on sea kayaks are typically tractor-ish style buckets and positioned very low, pretty much in contact with the bottom of the boat, but are very helpful to hold the paddler in place and prevent wet butt.

I don’t know what you have around the house to put in there temporarily. Even a boat cushion would work to alleviate the wet butt part (but do nothing to keep the paddler locked in place).

If you do not have the seat that came with the boat you might eventually be able find to a replacement that would work, or shape one out of minicel with a butt depression and contact cement it to the bottom of the hull.

BTW, be careful using silicone in applications where you might want to remove it and adhere something else later. Once the Silicone has been used it is difficult to get adhesives to stick where the silicone once was.


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PostPosted: August 20th, 2018, 12:37 pm 
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Its missing thigh braces too.. Does it have footpegs?

IMO its nowhere near ready for a trip as is. $500 was about right. You might get away with it on your family trip but if you load it so waves break over the deck... be aware you might have flooded bulkheads or at least water in them... Those hatches need to be watertight otherwise the boat has no flotation save for whatever air you have in packs inside.

The original seat was molded plastic and about two inches off the floor.


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PostPosted: August 20th, 2018, 1:55 pm 
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littleredcanoe wrote:
Its missing thigh braces too.. Does it have footpegs?

IMO its nowhere near ready for a trip as is. $500 was about right. You might get away with it on your family trip but if you load it so waves break over the deck... be aware you might have flooded bulkheads or at least water in them... Those hatches need to be watertight otherwise the boat has no flotation save for whatever air you have in packs inside.

The original seat was molded plastic and about two inches off the floor.


I do not know what Stratton Lake is like, how far you intend to paddle or what the conditions might be, and do not want to put anyone in discomfort or danger.

If the Caspian Sea has foot braces those and the back band will provide two points of oppositional contact with the hull.

With less than a week to “outfit” the kayak there are some inexpensive things you might do.

If the lack of sealed hatch covers in potential breaking waves is a concern don’t overload the kayak with gear, so that it rides higher and lighter. You could occlude the storage areas with dollar store beach balls, even if you have to blow them up inside the boat (don’t overfill them, and don’t completely fill the hatches, so there is some heat expansion room).

A boat cushion on the bottom would bring the “seat” height up to a more agreeable position; it looked like the kayak had swallowed your 14 year old. Maybe duct tape it in place so it does not slide around.

If there are no foot braces you can jam or wedge a chunk of something lightweight up front at approximate foot position to provide a rudimentary brace. Even a small, lightly packed dry bag stuck in there sideways would work better than no footbrace at all. A chunk of minicel wedged against the front bulkhead is even better.

Can’t do much about the too long clunky Mohawk paddle unless you can borrow something more appropriate for a sea kayak. I used 280cm Mohawk double blades for years (in open canoes) and it didn’t kill me, but I wouldn’t use one now if you paid me.

Thigh braces need to be sized and positioned for the paddler. If you have some miniel you could put the 14 and 16 year olds in the boat for a test fit and contact cement some minicel on the cockpit coming edges.

Sometimes you dance with what you got. A hard paddling friend has used an ancient Mariner sea kayak in all kind of conditions for years. The back band broke, he never replaced it. The foot pedals broke, he never replaced them either. My whole body hurts just thinking about paddling like that, but he has done so many, many times.


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PostPosted: August 20th, 2018, 3:20 pm 
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I do have a seat - will take a video of it and someone can tell me if it was original or jerry rigged, but it does seem to fit well. It is a wooden frame with black 2" nylon wove straps similar to what some canoe seats are made like, and that seat velcros into place. It seems quite comfortable.

I'm not sure what thigh straps are but it does have adjustable foot pegs that seem to be adjusted to my height (and my oldest son's).

I'll see what I can do to jerry rig hatch covers. I'll keep an eye out for used neoprene suits at the thrift store - there have been several over the summer but not in the last few weeks. I could cut something out of those.

I'll video the seat and post it.


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PostPosted: August 20th, 2018, 3:24 pm 
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I think I'm going to get some of the silicone tubing I was talking about in the video and see if I can make a reasonable gasket. That's a relatively inexpensive way to try something for those hatches.


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PostPosted: August 20th, 2018, 5:27 pm 
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You might run to Home or Rona and try some weatherstripping. While it won't be bombproof it could help keep your gear dry..'
Or you carry soakable gear..

Once upon a time hubby had leaking bulkheads.. He only got the idea something was wrong when the top deck of the craft was an inch out of the water. Wearing a drysuit he didn't notice.

I have rolled my Caribou and with immersion suit was surprised at how easy it was to roll a flooded boat.


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PostPosted: August 22nd, 2018, 9:04 am 
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Prospector16 wrote:
I do have a seat - will take a video of it and someone can tell me if it was original or jerry rigged, but it does seem to fit well. It is a wooden frame with black 2" nylon wove straps similar to what some canoe seats are made like, and that seat velcros into place. It seems quite comfortable.

I'm not sure what thigh straps are but it does have adjustable foot pegs that seem to be adjusted to my height (and my oldest son's).

I'll see what I can do to jerry rig hatch covers. I'll keep an eye out for used neoprene suits at the thrift store - there have been several over the summer but not in the last few weeks. I could cut something out of those.


About the seat, that is something jerry rigged by previous owner. The black seat drop support arms would serve no purpose with a velcroed on the bottom canoe-type bench seat. The only boat I have seen with such an OEM seat arrangement was the Dagger Tupelo pack canoe.

About the thigh braces (not straps) many/most sea kayaks have braces for the paddler’s thighs under the edge of the cockpit coming/front deck which allow the paddler to brace their thighs against the edge of the inside edge of the hull for a more secure fit and for edging the boat.

Those thigh braces sometimes incorporate molded fiberglass “wings” with padding for comfort. They are not a one size fits all and often need to be customized with minicel to fit the paddler’s physique.

In a sea kayak fit the paddlers legs should be bent slightly at the knee, not legs out full length. With fitted thigh braces that provides four points of body to boat contact, seat, back band, foot pedals and thigh braces, so the paddlers can essentially “lock” their lower body in place.

About the foot pedals, if they do not fit your 14 year old in the closest position you might duct tape something, even a block of wood, onto the pedals so that his legs reach; the pedals can simply be slid forward for you or your 16 year old.

I know time is running short, but having usable foot pedals is pretty important and that is a 2 minute temporary fix I would do before the trip.

About the neoprene hatch covers, Swift may have neoprene hatch covers that will fit the Caspian Sea. If Swift does not another manufacturer may have a right-sized cover. We had an old Horizon sea kayak that came with terrible hatches and we found a neoprene covers from a different manufacturer that fit that sized opening perfectly.

Same goes for a proper seat, Swift, or another manufacturer may have a seat pan that fits the Caspian Sea, although my frugal preference would be to get a piece of 3” thick minicel, shape the bottom of the minicel to match the hull contours, shape the top into a derriere cupping bowl akin to a tractor seat and contact cement that minicel into the kayak.

Minicel foam is easy to shape; the hull matching bottom curve could be done (carefully and incrementally) with a belt sander, and there are tools (Sur-form rasps and Dragonskin) for shaping the top of the minicel seat pan.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Stanley-7-1-4- ... gKaw_D_BwE

Once you are back from your trip those repairs and improvements to the Caspian Sea are well worth pursuing, and your older sons can help with the custom shaping and sizing to assure that the kayak fits them both equally well.

It won’t be many years until the 8 year old wants a turn.


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PostPosted: August 22nd, 2018, 2:55 pm 
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Thanks for all that Mike.


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PostPosted: August 25th, 2018, 6:52 pm 
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Continuing this thread over here

http://www.myccr.com/phpbbforum/viewtop ... 49&t=46977


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