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PostPosted: August 27th, 2018, 6:30 pm 
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Prospector16 wrote:
If I don't have a cockpit cover is that going to be an issue transporting it on the highway on top of my truck rightside up?

:lol: I am not a weather forecaster. Rain will enter the cockpit naturally

And make unloading a matter of controlling a very heavy dumbell kayak


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PostPosted: August 28th, 2018, 12:35 pm 
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littleredcanoe wrote:
:lol: I am not a weather forecaster. Rain will enter the cockpit naturally

And make unloading a matter of controlling a very heavy dumbell kayak


What LRC said. A kayak sized opening is at least less of a rain bucket than an open canoe. The scariest canoe transport I have ever seen was a guy on the traffic-thick Jersey Turnpike with a Coleman canoe upright on his van. In an hours-long pounding rainstorm. I gave him a very wide berth.

Getting the kayak off the truck, even if it only swallowed a couple gallons of water, would be awkward. Three gallons of water is 25 lbs. That shifting weight matters when you go to take the kayak off the racks and it is abruptly all at one end.

More critically, I would not want to do a panic stop with 25 lbs of water suddenly slamming forward in a boat on the roof racks. I’m thinking irresistible force meets movable object; something bad is going to happen.

If it looks like rain (what about the drive back weather?) I would fashion some way to rack the kayak upside down. For starters the racks should be as close to the kayak’s bulkheads as possible, so you have a solid area of hull to strap or tie around.

You can DIY some angled wedges as a homemade cradle from any kind of scrap foam; ethafoam packing material from electronics, Walmart minicel yoga blocks, even a couple nestled pieces of pipe insulation, positioned on each side of the hull. Stick some (thin) foam under the hull and some thicker |\ wedges under each side of the boat on the crossbars.

When you get home you can make better, custom shaped cradles for the roof racks or trailer, as simple as some wood and some foam padding. There are lots of videos on making DIY cradles or J-bars.

The worst cartopping hull we ever owned was a Dimension Typhoon SOT. It was a wonderfully fun little SOT, light weight and responsive. It had no scupper holes, and because of a weird storage compartment/backrest hump behind the seat it could only be cartopped upright.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dimensi ... 3-m_XR2GPM:

(Old Town brought the Typhoon back as the H2YO at some point. I bought our Typhoon used for $100, sold it for twice that and wish I had kept it. Great fun for some downriver daytrippy applications, my sons loved it on Florida spring runs where they could dispatach overboard and clamber back on)

I had the Typhoon, by necessity upright, on the van racks one hard rainy night and in the morning it was brimful of water. I bailed a bunch out, which was not easy since the top of the SOT was 12 feet in the air, and finally g’dammit resorted to tying the kayak stoutly backwards, getting the van up to 20 MPH and slamming on the brakes. The amount of water that deluged the windshield was impressive, and there was still some in the boat.

What if you put the kayak on the truck the day before and it rains overnight? What if the long range forecast is incorrect and it pours buckets on the drive home? For your safety, and the safety of others on the road, make some crude DIY foam cradles, duct tape them to the roof racks and carry it upside down.


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PostPosted: August 28th, 2018, 5:11 pm 
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What if I just cut a piece of poly tarp to size and put some shock cord around it as a makeshift cockpit cover?


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PostPosted: August 28th, 2018, 6:42 pm 
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Prospector16 wrote:
What if I just cut a piece of poly tarp to size and put some shock cord around it as a makeshift cockpit cover?

Um. and it blows off into the windshield to an OPP officer... Make sure its tight
Do NOT ask how I know.. Connecticut State Police has no sense of humo(u)r


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PostPosted: August 29th, 2018, 9:26 am 
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Prospector16 wrote:
What if I just cut a piece of poly tarp to size and put some shock cord around it as a makeshift cockpit cover?


Again, what LRC said.

Even properly designed and sized cockpit covers, with a rand that fits tightly under the lip of the cockpit coming, have been known to blow off. Most have a webbing loop at the front that can be attached to the bow bungee or some deck fitting, so that if they blow off in transit they at least stay attached to the hull and don’t end up on some motorist’s windshield.

If you opt to try the piece of poly tarp and bungee cord cockpit cover I would at least belt & suspenders the attachment, maybe tighten a cam strap around the hull and across the makeshift cockpit cover.

You could duct tape the thing in place, but you would have sticky tape residue on the hull, and cheap duct tape might not fare well in rain at highway speeds.

EDIT: I am again going to suggest racking the kayak upside down on some foam wedges or cradle.

The manufactured versions of those minicel kayak cradles are widely available and lots of people use them successfully year after year.

https://comfykayak.com/12-standard-kaya ... gKWmfD_BwE

Caveats with those foam cradles:

If you make a hard stop the kayak, unless well secured, may shift forward, causing the foam blocks to rotate sideway on the crossbars, at which point your once-tight straps or ropes are tight no longer.

I have a couple of those foam kayak cradles found as “roadkill” after the block itself went took flight from someone’s rack

When we use foam blocks I strap the block itself to the crossbar with a short piece of webbing and ladder lock. I have never lost a block on the road, and it probably helps prevent the foam from rotating on the crossbars in hard stops.

These minicel Yoga block are less than $3 in-store at the nearest WallyWorld. 6” x 9” x 3” thick.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/YOGA-BLOCK-BLUE/54193774

Two of them cut on the diagonal would make four wedges, one for each side of the crossbars fore and aft against the (upsided down) hull.


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PostPosted: August 29th, 2018, 5:41 pm 
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Yeah I already have those foam blocks - have not tried it upside down yet but I guess I'll do that first. That will also make front and back straps easier. Good tip on securing it to the bar first.


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PostPosted: August 30th, 2018, 7:21 pm 
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Email from someone in the parts department at Swift suggests that my seat is in fact the original, and according to them my kayak pre-dates when Swift "had a factory", whatever that means. I've emailed back for clarification.


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PostPosted: August 31st, 2018, 8:31 am 
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Prospector16 wrote:
Email from someone in the parts department at Swift suggests that my seat is in fact the original, and according to them my kayak pre-dates when Swift "had a factory", whatever that means. I've emailed back for clarification.

I think whoever told you that is wrong.. I bought mine at a Swift event in the early 90's. I bought a canoe from them from the factory in Dwight in 1989.. Back then they were still branded Sawyer but by the early 90s had rebranded to Swift.
I used to work at the store in CT that sold Swifts and was owned by a member of the Swift family. AFAIK Hudson made the hulls for canoes for Swift but the final outfitting was in Dwight. Kayaks could have been different.


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PostPosted: August 31st, 2018, 1:29 pm 
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Prospector16 wrote:
Email from someone in the parts department at Swift suggests that my seat is in fact the original, and according to them my kayak pre-dates when Swift "had a factory", whatever that means. I've emailed back for clarification.


I guess that crude seat could be OEM. I notice that the seat drops are angled out against the sides of the hull at the bottom. It they are epoxied in place there, at the bottom of that angle against the hull, maybe they served only to stiffen the cockpit area when climbing in and never actually supported a seat.

On some sea kayaks that cockpit rim stiffening is accomplished via the seat itself, sometimes with some minicel wedges glued between the bottom of the seat and the floor of the hull (so the seat pan isn’t rubbing away at the bottom of the hull)

If there is any sign of a seat having been epoxied or bolted onto the bottom of those drops I would take that as a sign that there was an actual sea kayak type seat affixed at some point.

In any case I would someday carve out a custom minicel seat pan and contact cement it in place.

But that can wait ‘til you get back.


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PostPosted: August 31st, 2018, 3:39 pm 
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the seat and the supports on my North Sea ( a bigger model of Swift kayak in the same line of the early 90's were integral. One piece.. It appears someone did not like the seat and sawed it out.. Its not glued to the bottom of the hull nor fastened in any way.


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PostPosted: September 1st, 2018, 1:28 pm 
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littleredcanoe wrote:
the seat and the supports on my North Sea ( a bigger model of Swift kayak in the same line of the early 90's were integral. One piece.. It appears someone did not like the seat and sawed it out.. Its not glued to the bottom of the hull nor fastened in any way.


In P16’s video in post #1 it does appear that something was cut or broken out from the bottom of those seat drop arms.

Every seat in a composite sea kayak I have worked on, an Impex Assateague, some west coast boat (maybe a Seda) and a couple of Current Design boats, have had thin minicel wedges glued under the seat pan, between the underside of the seat and the bottom of the boat.

The minicel wedges on the Impex were hap hazardously and unevenly stuffed in place, and one of the three wedges was missing entirely (visible glue residue where it once rested).

The Assateague had begun to crack at the cockpit coming, right where the seat/paddler weight was bearing down. The paddler was not a big guy, but over time with the seat pan rubbing sand and grit directly in contact against the hull below had worn the kevlar to see-through paper thin.


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PostPosted: September 4th, 2018, 6:29 am 
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So everything worked out well with transporting it except one problem I only discovered on the way home - the bigger front hatch flaps open and shut at 90 km/h! On the way up I had it on the racks the other way around so the big flap went down onto one of the foam blocks, and I guess the smaller hatch being at front was not an issue since it was too small for the wind to grab ahold of and open.

I'm definitely going to add modern hatch straps to it.


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