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PostPosted: October 26th, 2004, 5:02 pm 
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I'm almost finished except for riveting the front in place and cutting out the 2 cooking rings. I'll do this as soon as I can figure out how long the stove should be.
The stove is now 10x10x23. The front is set back one inch so that my wacko door system is protected. This leaves a 22 inch long firebox. I'm waffling between leaving it as-is and cutting another 2 inches off of it . It's 24 gauge and 8.3 pounds. I couldn't find 26 gauge so cutting off two inches might make up the difference.
Anyway it has been a lot of fun so far except for the 10 minutes spent picking the metal slivers out of my fingers every night. I can't wait until freezeup so I'll put it up in the backyard this weekend for a test run.

Big thanks to you Dave. Your design and ideas have been really appreciated.
cheers, Ted
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PostPosted: October 26th, 2004, 8:42 pm 
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Joined: June 26th, 2001, 7:00 pm
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Location: scarborugh, Ontario canada
Ted,
I'm putting together a hot tent(an old woods tent) and was thinking about making a stove, about what did it cost you to make this stove? I know they are about $60 to $70 at LeBaron.
thanx..........jim


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PostPosted: October 26th, 2004, 9:25 pm 
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Joined: January 10th, 2002, 7:00 pm
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Location: Thornton, Ontario Canada
Hi Jim

My Dave Hadfield shop built stove (just like Ted's) cost me about $40. I used 22 gauge steel costing about $15. The 5 lengths of pipe about the same price as the steel and then I bought 100 steel rivets for about $6. You will appreciate your stove just a little more when using it because you have built it yourself. In my case I appreciate Dave's patience with me when I was building my stove at his place. Thanks Dave.

Cliff


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PostPosted: October 27th, 2004, 6:45 am 
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Location: Big Flats, New York USA
Is the door the bottom of an old copper clad pan?

Looks good!

Tony


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PostPosted: October 27th, 2004, 7:48 am 
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Great fun,
total cost is under $30.00 not including pipe.
Yep, the door is the bottom of an old 8 inch frypan-lid cut down to 1.5 inches deep. I originally tried using a square piece of leftover steel but it looked like it would warp too fast. The door idea is a direct knockoff of the LeBaron design. I used the LeBaron last year and had no warping problems so the idea works well. I also added an extra piece of steel where the hinges attach. I was worried about stress fractures from the constant opening and closing.

Now I've got the design fully figured out I figure it's an easy weekend project. If anybody wants I can send them closeups of various areas to give them a ideas to start from. BTW, Daves 2x4 bending break makes it some easy to make good bends. Without it building the stove would have been a total forget-it.

cheers Ted


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PostPosted: October 28th, 2004, 9:22 am 
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Location: Barrie, Ontario Canada
Looks good to me, Ted. Looks like you'll be warm and cozy!

If you cut out 2 stove rings, you'll have to re-inforce the underside of the top in-between them. use a piece of sheet metal bent into shape like this: --v-- (seen end on, except the dashes should be at the top of the V) to reduce the warping.

What size pipe did you decide on?

I've come up with a better draft control. (I need to update the website!) It's simply a hole cut in the door, as you've done, with a round cover plate over it that has a corresponding hole in it. Pivot the cover plate on a bolt put through the CENTER, and to provide tension (so it stays put), install a small (1/2") section of compression spring on the bolt. This pushes the cover plate against the door for a good seal, is dead easy to work, and is infinitely adjustable.

Congratulations!


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PostPosted: October 28th, 2004, 10:27 am 
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Thanks Dave,
I have a piece of angle bracket that I was going to use between the pot rings. I'ts too heavy - I like your V bracket idea better.
I made the stove pipe opening 4 inches. I used 4 inches on my LeBaron stove last year and it seemed to work well. 4 inch pipe is also very light. Light is why I'm building this stove and lending my heavy and heavy-duty LeBaron stove to a high-school outdoor program.

I monkeyed around with various ideas on draft control. My original idea was to cut 2 triangles in the door, cut a butterfly looking plate and use a bolt/spring to hold it all together. I'm not that handy so it didn't turn out as I wanted as the middle piece between the triangles that held the bolt/spring looked too flimsy. I'm guessing from your description that my idea was a Rube Goldberg version of yours. I'm looking forward to seeing your implementation. So I went the super easy route. I figure if the rivet ever loosens up I can always re-set it with pliers.

Forgot to mention that Bors S. has a pic of my pyramid tent in action on his bushwacker website. http://www.bushwhackeronline.com/lightpyramid.html It's a really nice light-weight tent that I can easily set up myself. Just don't laugh too much at the size, weight and length of the stove pipe. Looking at it now reminds me of something the military might use to launch rockets :lol: Now between the tent and my new stove, the weight of my gear is down to where I can pull it all myself.

Thanks again,
Ted


Last edited by Ted on October 28th, 2004, 4:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: October 28th, 2004, 11:38 am 
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Joined: April 18th, 2002, 7:00 pm
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Location: Beamsville, Ontario Canada
Nice work Ted :clap:

After seeing your stove, I've now been inspired to make my own. Have you any pointers for a rookie? Actually can anyone lead me to Dave Hadfield's site? What basic tools and materials do I need? I know as much as metal sheet and rivets. Good start I know.

Advance thanks.
-Jake


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PostPosted: October 28th, 2004, 2:27 pm 
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Hi Jake,
Dave's site it http://www.hadfield.ca/
It has a list of tools and materials and guidelines.
The gauge of the sheet metal is a trade off between weight and longevity.
I used 24 gauge and the stove weighs in at just over 8 pounds. I also found that 24 gauge is just about max and about right for my talents and tools. Anything heavier and cutting and bending might have been an issue.

I changed my above post - I used 4 inch not 3 inch 26 gauge stove pipe. No wonder I can't build anything!.

I am really paranoid about sharp edges so I spent a lot of time with a file rounding off edges and corners. I also couldn't come up with a decent bended corner. That is also why the front/rear ends are inserts. This cut down the length of the firebox by a an inch at each end so I don't whether that was a good idea of not. Building decent corners may allow for the ends to go over the walls and maximize firebox size.
cheers, Ted


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PostPosted: November 9th, 2004, 1:00 pm 
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Joined: April 18th, 2002, 7:00 pm
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Location: Beamsville, Ontario Canada
I'm in the process of finishing my version of DaveH stove. several questions for the experts:

1. damper or no damper?
2. 3" stove pipe ok?
3. can i use aluminum stove pipe or does it have to be galv steel?

thanks.
jake


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PostPosted: November 9th, 2004, 1:14 pm 
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Location: Barrie, Ontario Canada
Jake, in my experience you just don't need a damper. Try to make the door and draft control as tight as you reasonably can, that's all. My last stove had 2 latches instead of one, and the improved draft I described above.

As for pipe size, 3" is OK up to about 9 x 9 x 22. More than that and you'll need 4in pipe.

Aluminum is absolutely useless as a building material for any part of this stove, including the pipe. In use, you'll sometimes see flame roaring out the pipe, 7ft from the stove. Aluminum would melt.

Good luck!

Dave


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PostPosted: November 9th, 2004, 6:52 pm 
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Location: Beamsville, Ontario Canada
thanks dave. my stove dimensions are 10x10x22 - i went a bit off-spec from your dimensions :), so i guess i need the 4" then.


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PostPosted: November 9th, 2004, 8:54 pm 
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Dave, with all of the building going on you should have patented the design!
p.s. we'd all like to see that new draft control system if you get a chance.

The interior of mine is also 10x10x22. Although I have 4 inch stove pipe from the Lebaron stove, I would really like to get away with 3 inch pipe.

Using 3 inch pipe really makes a differnce in weight as it is about 2 pounds less than 4 inch . It also make putting all that pipe and 2 90s much easier. 4inch needs cramming - 3inch has room left over.

thanks again,
cheers, Ted


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PostPosted: November 19th, 2004, 9:42 am 
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Location: Beamsville, Ontario Canada
just finished setting up my stovepipe hole last nite. while setting up my stove pipes, i was wondering what's the minimum stove pipe length you guys have on your setup.

is it a good rule of thumb to go above the roof line? or do you just set up enough to run it outside the tent? right now i only have 2x22" sections wtih an adjustable 90degree elbow (and a left-over 6" cutout of the stock 4" stove pipe). tha'ts enough to get the stovepipe out just below the roofline and another 6" section to direct the smoke away from the tent.

jake


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PostPosted: November 19th, 2004, 11:15 am 
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Location: Barrie, Ontario Canada
The longer the stovepipe, the fewer the sparks on your roof, although a fly (being sacrifiicial aids this). Also, there's more draw through the stove if there's a good length of pipe -- it's a column of air in motion. There's a limit, of course.

It's a "pork-and-beaner" tent modification, right? With a wall tent you need 5 stove-lengths worth to reach the ridgepole, where it is wired on. I'm not quite sure what the architecture of your rig is.

Congratulations, by the way!


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