View topic - The Hadfield stove - Teds version
View unanswered posts | View active topics
Author |
Message |
d_flyrod
|
Posted: November 19th, 2004, 11:29 am |
|
Joined: June 15th, 2004, 12:43 pm Posts: 325
|
What would be the point of cutting out cooking rings? Weight, sure. Doesn't it affect stability and strength? Wouldn't you get as much heat transfer from resting your pots and pans right on top of the box? A couple of brackets to keep pans from being knocked off would be good.
|
|
Top |
|
|
Dave Hadfield
|
Posted: November 19th, 2004, 11:41 am |
|
Joined: April 11th, 2002, 7:00 pm Posts: 1153 Location: Barrie, Ontario Canada
|
Having a stove-ring cut-out allows you to heat the pot far more quickly.
There are times when the fire is not as hot as you'd like. Then, adding more wood, it takes a while for it to catch and with no cut-out it seems then to take forever for the water to boil.
With a cut-out, you can immerse your pot right up to the handle in the flames. This allows you to boil water faster than on a gas stove or even the one in your kitchen.
Having this capability also makes the unit a very efficient cookstove. By putting the pot amongst the flames, you can boil water using only a few twigs -- handy at a lunch stop, or first thing in the morning when you're anxious to get things moving.
You don't need, or want, brackets to stop pots from being knocked off, because the stoves are narrow, and frying pans and water pails are often wider than the stove.
|
|
Top |
|
|
Zelandonii
|
Posted: November 19th, 2004, 12:46 pm |
|
Joined: April 18th, 2002, 7:00 pm Posts: 419 Location: Beamsville, Ontario Canada
|
thanks for the info on the stove pipe length. i'm not sure what you mean by a "pork and beaner" type tent. my hot tent will be an old canvas (Woods) pyramid roof with straight walls. the frame set-up is similar to dining tents but of course, it's all canvas.
i plan to stick the stove pipe out just below the wall/roof transition (probably 4-6" below where the roof starts). the stove placement will be near the entrance just off the corner. that seems to be the common setup. hope that's ok. also i plan to configure the stove pipe as follows: 2x24" straight pieces attached to stove (to maximize heat transfer taking advantage of hot air/smoke rising through the pipe column) + adjustable 90degree elbow (my walls are slanted so one of the straight pieces will go out the tent before the elbow does) + 6" straight piece (or 24") directing any "sparks" + smoke away from the tent.
on the cooking ring front, is there a significant advantage of having a hole cut out big enough to fit a pot through VS just a hole to let the flames lick the pot bottom? right now, my cooking hole is only about 5". i was hoping that's enough to allow sufficient heat transfer for cooking.
-jake
|
|
Top |
|
|
canucanu
|
Posted: November 20th, 2004, 12:24 am |
|
Joined: February 19th, 2003, 7:00 pm Posts: 179 Location: Moncton, New Brunswick, Canada
|
I've noticed that many set-ups have the smoke pipe ending at an angle, there-fore susceptible to back drafts. If you just install an adjustible elbow adjusted to vertical, or better yet, if you were to use a 'T' on the end of the pipe rotated horizontally, you would pretty much eliminate any chances of back draft in windy conditions and you don't have to worry about wind direction in setting up or in changing wind directions.
Another solution would be to use a short length of stove pipe open along its' length so you can fasten it with screws over the end of the pipe in an inverted 'U' shape as a cap. You would need more than one screw on each side to keep it from pivoting. This one would pack better as you could flatten it out if needed.
Use three screws at each pipe connection and also at stove connection. You do want secure connections.
_________________ ~Ray~ ... accept the fact: nobody's perfect, not you, or I, or anybody else for that matter. Sorry if I burst your bubble, but that's reality!
|
|
Top |
|
|
Dave Hadfield
|
Posted: November 20th, 2004, 12:13 pm |
|
Joined: April 11th, 2002, 7:00 pm Posts: 1153 Location: Barrie, Ontario Canada
|
Sounds good. And having an adjustable elbow on the end to prevent backdrafts is a good idea too.
Any cut out is better than nothing, but being able to immerse the pot into the firebox is best. The trouble is finding the pot! Nearly all cooking pots now are wide and shallow and do not have bail handles. You want tall and narrower and a bail (wire handle). A perfectly acceptable compromise here might be a coffee can. They're about 5" across, right? Why not try that first? That'll allow you a very quick method of boiling water at almost no cost. You can make a handle and lid for it easily enough.
As a matter of interest, I don't screw together any of my pipe sections (except at home). The ones I use slide together very solidly. I've never had any come apart. You must use your own judgement, of course. The stove itself must be very solidly mounted, usually wired to its supports.
|
|
Top |
|
|
moe f
|
Posted: November 20th, 2004, 5:23 pm |
|
Joined: June 20th, 2001, 7:00 pm Posts: 423 Location: Kitchener, Ontario Canada
|
Dave, you mention screwing the chimney together only at home. Does this mean you use your camping wood stove in your workshop? I'm curious because I'm just in the final stages of completing my detached workshop (12 x20, insulated ) and was thinking of using my Dave Hadfield wood stove to heat it.
moe
|
|
Top |
|
|
Dave Hadfield
|
Posted: November 21st, 2004, 10:18 am |
|
Joined: April 11th, 2002, 7:00 pm Posts: 1153 Location: Barrie, Ontario Canada
|
Moe, I hate to give any consideration to the bloody insurance industry and lawyers and liability, but the stove is not CSA approved. Sure, it'll heat your shop, but if you have a fire and lose the building, it ain't my stove, it's your stove!
In my shop I have a large, mainstream woodstove and since I leave the building with a fire going I do indeed have the stovepipe sections screwed together. But when using these sheet metal stoves in a camping application I never do. It seems to hang together all right.
But if you use a handheld crimping tool to make your own male fitting at one end of the pipe it would be easy to end up with a sloppy fit. In this case using some screws would be best. You'd also have to make marks on the pipe (probably with a file) indicating which ends line up on which pipes, so that the screw holes match.
|
|
Top |
|
|
Who is online |
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests |
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum
|