View topic - snowshoe lacing?

It is currently March 26th, 2019, 9:45 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours





Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: snowshoe lacing
PostPosted: December 5th, 2006, 3:12 pm 
Offline

Joined: February 8th, 2005, 10:34 pm
Posts: 726
According to Craig MacDonald, the difference between fine netting and coarse makes little difference in flotation, in spite of what many people think.

Fine netting is lighter, therefore easier to walk with. Heavy netting withstands abrasion better, so in some conditions (typically spring snow which has melted and re-frozen) is more durable.

For what little it's worth, I have several pairs of snowshoes of different styles and with different types of netting. The only difference I have noticed in flotation is due entirely to the size of the snowshoe. When pulling heavy loads on light powder snow, I wear large 19x39 snowshoes which have babiche that is relatively light by modern standards.

On settled snow, I use either 14x42 Huron pattern, or 14x30 bearpaws. According to the Faber website, these sizes and styles will support the same weight range. The bearpaws have heavy netting, the Huron style have light netting, and I haven't noticed any difference in flotation.

If you are buying Fabers, make sure that you get the "Faber" brand. Their "Snowtrek" brand uses cheap split hide babiche, which sags and wears out quickly. The tightness or coarseness of the weave will make less difference to you than the quality of the leather.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 5th, 2006, 10:34 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 19th, 2001, 7:00 pm
Posts: 1879
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario Canada
I agree with Lost_Patrol's comments. I also have snowshoes with both fine and heavy webbing, but its full grain. Go for Faber, not Snowtrek.

Also: Faber just lightly dips its shoes in varnish. That's not good enough for wet snow. Brand new snowshoes should get at least two extra coats of spar varnish at home. It is good to re-varnish every year or so if the snowshoes get use. I have snowshoes with about 6 coats of spar varnish on now, and its not too much.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 6th, 2006, 12:17 pm 
Offline

Joined: June 27th, 2001, 7:00 pm
Posts: 719
Location: Ontario Canada
Hoop - do you apply the spar varnish only to the wood, or to the rawhide as well?

Do you prep the surface first?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 6th, 2006, 11:10 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 19th, 2001, 7:00 pm
Posts: 1879
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario Canada
Hi Jon,

No base prep. Spar varnish on everything. (take your bindings off, of course!). Spar varnish stays flexible when dry, so it tends not to crack and flake off. Don't use a brittle urethane or anything like that.

I use a little roller brush and tray to do most of the babiche, and a cheapo bristle brush for the wood and nooks and cranies. If old spar varnish has thickened in the can, you can use some mineral spirits to thin it.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 7th, 2006, 10:00 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: June 2nd, 2003, 12:09 pm
Posts: 379
I have to agree with Hoop regarding Faber varnish. I had a new pair a few years ago and was surprised to see the varnish on the gut very worn after just one season.

I put 3 coats on right after that. I'm otherwise very satisfied with them.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group