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PostPosted: August 18th, 2021, 1:26 pm 
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I'm thinking about a trip to Temagami next summer, likely early to mid July, that would include some WW and would take about 7-10 days. A loop is preferred but linear is also possible as we'd have two cars. Solitude and natural beauty are also high on the wish list. I've been thinking about the Sturgeon R., the Montreal R., and Temagami R. though there may be others I haven't thought of.

I have Hap Wilson's Temagami book as a reference, if it's easier to point out his route numbers. Right now I'm looking at:
-Rte1 (either the Donald L./Sturgeon R. to River Valley linear section or the Red Cedar L/Temagami R. to River Valley linear section)
-Rte16+17: Gowganda to Longpoint via Montreal R.
-Rte21+23+1: Loop that starts and ends at Matagamasi L. via the Sturgeon R.

Would you rule any of these out based on average water levels at that time of year? Any that you'd recommend in particular? Thanks in advance for your advice!


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PostPosted: August 26th, 2021, 2:45 pm 
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I'm familiar only with the 3rd option: Chiniguchi and the Sturgeon river. In July most (if not all) of the runnable rapids on the Sturgeon will be probably class 1 - non-technical class 2 (usual disclaimer applies). Very nice run, but in a different league than the Temagami river, or so I heard.

For 7-10 day trip with some w/w one can start either from Kukagami (paid parking only) or Matagamasi. If starting from Matag public landing I'd go - slowly! - all the way north through Dougherty, Stouffer and backdoor route to Kettle falls (very scenic route) and then down to Kelly's farm. Return to Matag via Kukagami (by Maskinonge, Carafel creek and Doon portages, see ottertooth maps) or Donald lake via Donald creek.

Judging by the last few seasons sites availability at Wolf and especially Donald lakes could be problematic. Consider alternative camping at the less popular (but often not less deserving) lakes - Silvester, Dewdney, Dougherty, Stouffer, Doon, Potvin... Area north of Chiniguchi lake usually is deserted, even Covid crowds do not venture that far. Always some company on the Sturgeon.
Water levels on this route should be fine in July. Doon and Kelly's might be somewhat sketchy.

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PostPosted: August 27th, 2021, 2:51 pm 
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Awesome, these tips are super helpful. I'm leaning toward this route (leaving from and returning to Matagamasi) over the others for several reasons, but one of the big ones is the fact that it's a WW river as part of a larger loop, so we don't have the hassle of shuttling ourselves. Too bad that Wolf and Donald are so crowded in the summer. I was definitely hoping to camp on both, but I'll certainly make note of those other lakes in case they're full up.

So a few more questions, then:
1. Let's say I have 10 days max and I'll lose half a day on either end with travel. I'd also like to have at least two rest days. On the WW section, three will have done one WW river before and one will be new. Would you say this loop is still doable without pushing it too much or would I be better off cutting the Sturgeon shorter by leaving the river via Halleck Ck. or at Pilgrim Triangle via Parsons L.? (I guess what I'm asking is how long it took you to do this route and what was your pace like?)
2. Why did you choose the huge portage at Kelly's farm rather than the paddling route down Kelly L. and Gawasi L. into Maskinonge? I was imagining that the slightly longer paddle with a couple short portages would be easier than the 3.5km beast?
3. Sturgeon is the only section of this route that a permit is needed, right?

If anyone else has any input about July water levels or general enjoyability of the Temagami R. or Montreal R. route from Gowganda to Long Point, it'd be much appreciated.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: August 27th, 2021, 5:21 pm 
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Perhaps I can answer. Of the loop described by Eddy Turn above only the Sturgeon river portion requires permits.
July water levels on the Sturgeon will tend to be low, thus requiring some bump and grind. I just got back yesterday from a Chiniguchi trip and yes, traffic is heavier than usual. It will be hit-and-miss for campsites on scenic lakes like Wolf and Donald.
The loop with exit at Kelly's (there's a short easy version of the exit from the Sturgeon over to Maskinonge available on the Ottertooth site, and I'm pretty sure that that's the route that Eddy Turn was referring to. I wouldn't consider that itinerary for completion in less than 10 days, but I solo, double-carry, fish a lot and hate rushing...
I like that route but portages, while well used and relatively short, are often strenuous with several unpleasant take-outs and put-ins along the river section. Tierney Angus wrote a report on the Sturgeon__reported on MYCCR__ a few years ago that highlighted some of the challenges she faced.
For comparison, I can't comment on the other "ww" routes in Temagami apart from the Makobe (normally a spring run), as I've not done them.


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PostPosted: August 27th, 2021, 5:22 pm 
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Re Temagami river levels

Temagami lake and Red cedar lake are drawn down from about early June to early October to supply the crystal falls generating station. Historical flows during the summer drawdown are 10-20 cu metres/sec. Never paddled the Temagami, so unsure what 10-20 cuM/sec looks like,,

OPG maintains levels and has details under the Sturgeon river system data. Wateroffice.ca has historical levels up to ‘94. Not sure if OPG has historical records available, or just their weekly bulletin,,


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PostPosted: August 27th, 2021, 8:45 pm 
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As for itinerary, in my book 8 running days should be enough going to the Sturgeon through Stouffer: e.g. camping on Wolf, Chiniguchi lake, Stouffer (3 relaxed days that might be done in 2), Sturgeon at the Pilgrim Triangle, Upper Goose Falls, Kelly's or Gawasi lake, Kukagami or Donald. It can be done in 7 days as well, depending on how fit and enthusiastic your group is. Going north of Stouffer - through Backdoor to Kettle falls - will require about 1 to 1.5 more days. Portages on the backdoor route are short, but some of them are pretty tough. Same goes for the Sturgeon portages upstream of the Pilgrim Triangle.

My calculations are based on solo trips, double-carry portages, and I'm no athlete.

Parsons and Halleck routes include lots of walking, mostly on easy roads, but still... I like these routes, but for a first taste of the area my choice would be the river at least from the Stouffer to Kellys' portage. When I say Kelly's portage I mean the Kelly-Gawasi lakes route (never did the 3.4km portage). Campsites in this part tend to be very basic and beware of the first portage out of the Sturgeon: the split (where the 3.4km goes straight and Kelly's lake portage goes left) takes place in a grassy area with no visible points of reference and the trail to the left could be almost invisible in high grass.

All my descriptions are based on Ottertooth and Hap Wilson maps, which in my opinion are the only reliable maps of this area.

Permits are required only for the nights you camp on the Sturgeon.

In my limited experience, the Sturgeon in July usually had no serious water level issues. At its worst you might be getting out of the boat here and there on gravel shallows. Sturgeon levels measurements are available at https://wateroffice.ec.gc.ca/report/rea ... tn=02DC012 . I comfortably ran the river at discharge as low as 4.50m though it did require some easy wading.

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PostPosted: August 28th, 2021, 2:05 pm 
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martin2007 wrote:
I just got back yesterday from a Chiniguchi trip and yes, traffic is heavier than usual. It will be hit-and-miss for campsites on scenic lakes like Wolf and Donald.

Hi Martin,
By any chance, was it you paddling solo around the 22nd of August near Chiniguchi lodge - we were discussing Dougherty lake portages?
Sergey

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PostPosted: August 28th, 2021, 6:06 pm 
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Hello Sergey,
Yes, that was me. What a small world!
The last time I'd paddled lakes north of Chiniguchi was 7 years ago and at that time I'd been rushing to get to Kettle Falls. I'd remembered almost nothing of Dougherty and Frederick, except that they were quiet and pretty. I hadn't fished them the last time through, but suspected that acid rain had done its due diligence on the lake trout population there and that any fishing would be fruitless. Unless bass have made their way in, and that appears not to be the case. I didn't see as much as a minnow on the two lakes during my 2 days base-camping on the site you recommended on Dougherty. Thank you for the info that day as it helped me make the most of my stay up there. We sure were lucky with the weather, too! Pleasure to meet you, Sergey!


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PostPosted: August 28th, 2021, 6:54 pm 
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Interesting, but Dougherty has a healthy loon population - isn't it a sign of fish being aplenty? I don't fish myself, but if I knew you are into fishing I'd tell that locals mostly fish 2 small lakes on the way to Dougherty: Adelaide and Button. Well, may be you will visit them in another 7 years? Cheers!

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PostPosted: August 29th, 2021, 1:43 pm 
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Thank you all for the info. Super useful. If it's doable at a not-too-urgent pace in 8 running days+2 or 3 rest days, that should work for us.

@Airbag: Thanks, I wouldn't have thought to have checked the OPG site for water levels. Had been looking at the Can Gov water level site, but they only had current data on the Sturgeon.

@Martin2007: I couldn't find that trip report you mentioned, but good to know that there are some tough portages. Our boats are reasonable weights and we single carry, so not a deal breaker.

@Martin2007 & @Eddy Turn: How long did it take you from Upper Goose Falls to Kelly's portage? This seems to be quite a long, slow stretch.

I was thinking the Gawasi route would be easier but one of the trip reports says that the 3.5km portage is wide, easy, and they did it in less than an hour. Anyone done both and have a preference?

Also, anyone have a preference between the three routes from Muskinonge to Matagamasi: via Cafafel/via Potvin/via Karl?


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PostPosted: August 29th, 2021, 3:30 pm 
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I've only paddled the Sturgeon twice, and there were 30 years between the two descents. The 1st time was Smoothwater Lake to the river and exiting the river by paddling upstream on the Obabika River. The 2nd time was the big loop trip you're considering in and out of Matamagasi.
The meanders through many kilometers of dunes on the Lower Goose to Kelly's exit aren't everyone's cup of tea. I loved that section, though, which I hadn't done previously, and much of which I paddled standing with an SUP paddle. When I did it I put in a 30-some km day in this final river stretch.
As for the Maskinonge-Matamagasi section, all routes have good things to offer. The Potvin-Donald-Colin Scott route is beautiful. The route through Potvin feels almost alpine and the carries are short and appealing especially if you seek to better understand the daily life lived by mountain goats. :) I also like the route north through Edna and Karl: well travelled, but very scenic. The Carafel route into Kukagami feels remote, the carries are easy, but on Kukagami you're getting into cottages. If you do that route, however, you miss the inevitable paddle against the wind down the northeast arm of Matamagasi. :) Nonetheless, Matamagasi has easy-to-find pictographs and some nice campsites. It's a beautiful lake, in spite of some development and and a little motor boat traffic.
I hope this helps.


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PostPosted: August 29th, 2021, 3:53 pm 
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The stretch from Upper Goose to Kelly's portage landing could become tiresome after Lower Goose; altogether for me it's about 6.5-7.5 hours non-stop, depending on current. Should be faster tandem. Alternatively one can camp at Lower falls, but then one can expect plenty of atvs passing right by the campsite. The Kelly's landing is at the mouth of a small stream and requires negotiating a sandy steep ascend to get to the trail. Again - having a partner will be helpful there. Soon after the fork, where the trail to Kelly's lake splits left from the long portage, it follows the same stream.

I won't expect any trails to be easy in this comparatively lightly used area. Even the portage around Lower Goose - I remember finding it sufficiently overgrown in the end of June that it required cleaning. BTW, as far as I remember, Hap Wilson's guide lists this portage on river left, which is wrong nowadays: the landing is on river right, just before the bridge.

Carafel route is interesting and pretty easy. Well traveled; some fishermen boats could be expected on Carafel lake. Nice camping at the waterslides. Upper Kukagami sites could be occupied. Two Doon portages from Kukagami to Matag are not difficult and are pretty. Doon levels sometimes could be an issue at the eastern bay, depending on beaver activity, I guess. This August there was plenty of water. If in trouble follow vertical sticks showing the best channel or portage through floating bog.

Route through Donald creek is my favorite: very beautiful, on the wild side and mostly deserted due to some tough portaging. The lakes and portages on this route are well worth the effort.

Karl falls are very scenic. Some heavy fishermen activity could be expected up to Lower Matag. Easy paddling, easy portaging in this area, but I'd rather take one of the creeks.

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PostPosted: August 29th, 2021, 7:37 pm 
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Perfect timing on bringing up this topic. I'm supposed to go up to the BWCA middle of September but it looks as if the park will remain closed for the near future. I became interested in this area after Jonathan Ontario put out some fantastic videos and I have been wanting to head up to Donald Lake. For me, the drive from western Pennsylvania to this area is much shorter than the BWCA. Seeing that I have 8 days to paddle, fish, and explore I'll have to dig up more info on this spectacular area. Can you paddle (I have a Swift Packboat) the Sturgeon River from Kettle Falls down to Kelly Lake? My main goal is fishing and photography.


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PostPosted: August 30th, 2021, 12:41 pm 
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Hi dbogey! I paddled BWCA this July, as the fires were starting, and I'd rather do Temagami. It's definitely much bigger, less crowded and more on the wild side. Portages and thunderboxes (where they exist) are serviced mostly by local enthusiasts or Friends of Temagami, which are local enthusiasts. A digging tool and - if you are going any further than Donald - a folding saw with working gloves could come handy. I don't have experience with packboats, bit in a regular canoe one can paddle the Sturgeon in average September water. But sometimes it could be very high and sometimes - more often - low. In average water levels almost all whitewater above class 1 has established portages. Still some w/w skills are required, in my opinion. Couple of landings are in fast moving water above rapids or falls, and ferry comes helpful. Hap Wilson's guide on paddling Temagami is a required reading for running Sturgeon, it includes detailed maps of the river.

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PostPosted: August 30th, 2021, 1:33 pm 
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Eddy Turn wrote:
.... Hap Wilson's guide on paddling Temagami is a required reading for running Sturgeon, it includes detailed maps of the river.


Bought his book a few years back in anticipation that I'd head up that way when I could. As much as I love the BWCA, I was just up there in early May, it is an awfully long drive, I'd rather explore the Temagami region.


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