Another coat of oil on the heirloom paddle grip, using a different oil for coat #2. Hey Joel, smell my finger; that’s the scent of family’s Rutaceae and Juglandaceae combined. Smells good, feels even better; to hell with varnish on grips.

Whether we eventually install them on the Sundowner or not the conduit flanges needed a little prep work. The raised lettering “CARLONS ½” E996D PVC” around the flange is tiny but still ugly, and the grey color is unattractive on any canoe. Well, maybe not a dull grey canoe, but those flanges would be especially unappealing on Kevlar Sundowner with black skid plates and black decks.

Looking through the box of parts I apparently bought extra box adapters last trip through the electrical aisle, always a good idea with things that cost 80 cents apiece. I have eight. I keep a spare and should have nine; last purchase I went into Home Depot that box adapter example (they come in different sizes) on my finger, picked out seven more and scanned/paid for the one I brought. There’s 80 cents I’ll never see again.

A couple minutes on the 1” belt sander removed that raised lettering and, as a bonus, slightly thinned the depth of the flange that protrudes from the hull. Eight 7/8” holes drilled (OK, nine. Have I lost the ability to count even single digits?) in a scrap board, box adapters pushed into the holes left showing only the tops and outer rim of the flanges.

P9100004 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

A pfffft pfffft of black spray paint eliminated the grey, but only on the exposed flange tops and sides; the box adapters will be affixed to the hull with G/flex on the bottom of the flanges and, if located above the float tanks, a bead around the edge of neck at the interior hull edge. I didn’t want paint where the G/flex was applied.

P9100005 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The box adapter flange heads look like this outside the hull.

P9100007 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

If run through the stems above the float tanks the exposed necks of the box adapters can be G/flex beaded inside to look like this.

P9100009 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

One advantage of the near-but-not-through float tank location – there is usually a thicker double layer of fabric available for the drilled holes.

Joel and Kathy came by to fetch the work-in-progress Sundowner. The previous “peel ply reveal” was a ruse for Joel’s reading pleasure. As always there was a day’s touch up work to be done on the Dynel sleeve.

After the peel ply was pulled I sanded the skid plates and laid a bead of G/flex 655 along the edges of the Dynel sleeve where it was still standing unbeveled tall to soften the abrupt transition, then painted the excess epoxy on the stem curves, where most wear occurs and where gravity had thinned the first epoxy coat to Dynel weave showing despite excess epoxy efforts.

P9080001 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Skid plates taped and papered again and a full topcoat of G/flex 650 with graphite powder.

P9090005 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I saved the old peel ply and laid it atop the Sundowner for a “Helluva job Joel!” photo op. Still needs a final sanding and a coat of black paint, but those skid plates will look great when finished.

Joel walked into the shop, looked at the Sundowner and said “Oh, you already did the topcoat with graphite powder”. Yes, Joel, G/flex 650, Graphite powder and black pigment. Can’t sneak much past Joel.

The skid plates need a final sanding, especially the bumpy 655 edges. I should have skipped laying the excess 655 on the tips of the skid plates and instead laid narrow strips of peel ply along those beaded edges to smooth out the bumpy 655. Nothing a little careful sanding won’t alleviate.

The worklist on the Sundowner did not get shorter. Looking at other shop outfitted canoes Kathy wants flanges for through-hull stem loops, and Joel wants them through the float tanks above the cutwater for motor towing the Sundowner. Can do.

And an oddity, an adjustable foot brace for Kathy’s bow position. We had previously made a shaped minicel block “bulkhead” that wedged into the vee of the bow stem at her preferred leg distance, but she would prefer a more solid and adjustable foot brace. Gotcha covered Kathy, already have the telescoping bars and drilled L-aluminum for a DIY solution. Covered with split foam that DIY bar will be unfuglified, and barefoot cushier.

P9120016 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Or we could cut down the rails and bars on an easier-to-adjust Wenonah foot brace. Alternatively, since your feet are positioned close together in the narrow Sundowner bow, we could simply install adjustable foot pedals on side rails in lieu of a cross hull foot bar. If you can find someone knowledgeable about foot brace preferences in a narrow space, like a sea kayak guide, I’d ask them for a recommendation.

Hell, we could even build a custom bowman’s utility thwart. Not just could, we should; the Sundowner’s narrow vee between your feet is no place to keep anything handy.

P7140008 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

P6240005 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Joel already has a small Spirit Sail and might even let you use it; you watch the bow wake stream past - nice work if you can get it - Joel can paddle blade rudder in the stern.

Foot brace wise, whatever gets installed, unless the rails are Plexused in place undrilled, the thin hull area where the pop rivets or bolts hold the track in place will need to be reinforced with some extra fabric. Four 2” squares of layered fabric, peel ply compressed will do the trick.

PA130005 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Planning ahead for gravity reasons, the box adapter G/flexing and epoxying of reinforcing patches for the foot brace are best done with the canoe resting on its side, but the bow and stern pair of box adapters atop the sideways hull and foot brace reinforcement inside can be done at the same time, before turning the hull a 180 to repeat on the other side.

What else? Seat pad keeper straps, easy enough, just bring the pad. Shop Gogetch, do it yourself or bribe the artist in residence. I have a collection of designs, including Michipezhoo (sp?). Just make sure he is facing forward or you’ll never hear the end of it.

Bowman’s narrow station knee bumpers for the Marquis De Sade aluminum gunwales? After the foot brace goes in Kathy will need a test sit to mark the location.

Happy days, meaning repeated days with my best shop partner, enough to keep me busy for weeks. Even if I sneakily do some work while he isn’t around. Some of the 20-minute epoxy then wait a day stuff isn’t worth his metro commute to the shop. We could sand the skid plates, cut the four holes for the box adapters, clean the resulting dust and paint the skid plates in an easy morning’s work.

Well, an easy morning’s work for me. My job is to say “Sand here with this”, “You missed a spot” and “Drill here with this”, “No, no not like that”.

Shop elves, in Die Wichtelmänner fashion, c ould G/flex the box adapters in place while the shoemaker slept.

Bye bye Voyager and Sundowner. See ya soon.

P9110015 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

In a small world coincidence, the previous owner of the Sundowner, friend Willie, came by for a shop visit a few days later. We did zero shop work, which was good; Willie didn’t have the chance to accidentally smear epoxy on all the shop door handles and trash can lids for me to grab bare handed a minutes later.

He did leave with some outfitting ideas, so it was still a productive day.

How soon do northern waters start stiffening? This morning was the first time in months it was 70F and I needed the defroster. Almost time that paddling will be tolerable again! How I despise summer in Florida.

Hereabouts, mid-Atlantic Maryland, frozen waters are unpredictable. Some winters, although not for quite a few years, the Chesapeake Bay will freeze over and ice breakers are needed to clear a path through the shipping channel to the port.

Tidal water freezes are odd; one bay or sound will be 100% iced over, another a short drive away will be open and clear. I did a trip with a friend 15 years ago to paddle the Wye River circumnavigating Wye Island. We were up early, over the Bay Bridge and arrived to find the Wye fully iced over. We drove 30 miles to another eastern shore tidal river, completely open, not even any rim ice. I can read tide tables, but that ice action is unforeseeable.

More often, especially of late, any ice over is infrequent and often short lived. My local home river, the Gunpower Falls, has a 15 miles stretch between reservoirs fed by bottom released water from the upstream dam. That dam released water is something like 58F year-round. Delightful on a hot summer day and remains open on all but the coldest of winters. The local reservoir never froze over last winter, I was paddling there the first legal day, March 1.

I needed a blanket on the bed the last few nights. Gawd I love cool, dry sleeping weather. Or maybe I just detest hot, humid toss-and-turn-sweaty (not) sleeping weather. Nanny nanny boo boo.

The Voyager returned, and the day’s business was making dust. First a decision, sealed lining holes through the float tanks, or simpler stem loops above the float tank. That choice required some thoughtful conversation.

Above the float tanks won, for several reasons; the material there is thicker*. We can lay a bead of G/flex around the neck of the box adapter inside the hull. The grab loop will be positioned higher and less likely to dangle in the water. For lining or towing purposes a bridle is easy enough to make, and maybe better for towing with the motorboat?

Sold, let’s drill some holes above the float tanks.

*The Sundowner hull felt paper thin at the float tanks, but feeling up inside between the deck plate and float tank there is an area where the material is at least three layers thick. Punching the Kevlar plug out of the hole saw the cylinder was ¼” thick. Above the float tanks, a good decision.

P9220017 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The holes at the bow necessitated removing parts of the “Sundowner” and “Kevlar 49” lettering so the G/flex wasn’t attached to a vinyl latter. The canoe is now a SUND NER, made of KE AR 49.

Half inch box adapters, half inch hole saw, should be short work. “Joel, you mark where you want the holes and I’ll drill the first one”.

Joel measured the location of the four holes with great exactitude, the Sundowner is 20 ½” tall at the bow with an 18” stern. The float tanks and clearance is different.

https://wenonah.com/Retired/Sundowner18.aspx

Joel put a Sharpie dot for the hole locations and I drilled the first hole, “Best to hold the drill at 90 degrees to the surface, and be careful once the saw punches through”. Brand new ½” hole saw cut through the Kevlar like butter.

“Joel, do you want me to drill the other side while I’m here”.
“Sure, go ahead”
“Joel, there are two Sharpie dots on this side, which one should I drill?”
“The lower one”
“Do you mean the lower one with the canoe upside down, or right side up?”
OK, I was just screwing with him. Joel shows me which hole to drill. I get the drill aligned, ready to press the trigger and he says “No wait, your angle is off”.

Is it now? I handed him the drill and we switched sides. Joel drilled the hole. Joel drilled the wrong hole. He was utterly despondent at the off kiltered-ness and explained “This is why you should drill the holes!”.

Lesson learned. Measure twice, mark once. Not that I haven’t made multiple cut or drill marks and screwed up. It is hard to cut something longer, or un-drill a hole.

A side note about drilling those ½” holes. I am exposure sensitive to Vinylester dust. The second the hole saw hit the hull I could smell Vinylester, and the Sundowner is a 1993 hull. I expunged the considerable Kevlar dust on the floor out the garage door with the leaf blower before it was tracked everdamnwhere.

The last of the days dust making was sanding the Dynel sleeve skid plates smoother and less glossy for a coat of paint.

“Here’s a roll of painters tape Joel, have at it at taping the edges of the skid plate epoxy”
“Finished” says Joel. “
“Not quite, tape them a second time. Running a power sander some extra tape thickness will help prevent went-too-far oopsies”.

Double taped I smoothed one edge of the G/flex beaded sleeve with the edge of a pad sander and handed it to Joel. “Only three sides to go, plus the stem tip and far end. I think I’ll have a beer”

Joel did a nice job with the pad sander, but he insisted that I check his work. I did not notice multiple “Drill here” marks, but there were a few areas that the Quality Control officer felt needed a touch more work.

Done with the pad sander I buzzed one side of one skid plate with an RO sander (and dust extractor, graphite powder is insidious). “Here’s the RO Joel, only three sides to go. “Where did I set my beer?”

P9210011 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

“Done” says Joel.
“Almost done. Here’s some pieces of 320. Go ahead and hand sand any areas that are still shiny, and then pull the tape”
“Pull the tape?!?”
“Yes, that tape is all scuffed along the edges now, we want nice sharp paint lines. Pull the old stuff, re-tape it and paper it”.

Joel is getting faster all the time at learning new taping and papering tricks, despite mumbling “I feel like I’m in kindergarten again”, although that may have been commentary on my supervisory suggestions. Joel made suggestions of his own. Some of which were anatomically impossible.

P9220013 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The newspaper mask is somewhat superfluous, the enamel paint doesn’t run down the sides, it is just there to catch any drips off the brush.

Top coated with black Rustoleum enamel the finished Dynel sleeve skid plates look mighty fine. A couple areas I might have sanded smoother, but a B+ job overall. I don’t think Joel saw many B+’s in his school days.

P9220022 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Tomorrow I can start G/flexing the box adapters into place. That is a 20-minutes-a-day, two-day process. Crap, I’ll have no one around to supervise. Maybe I can mutter to myself about my own work.

Despite the off kilter oopsie on the bow’s stem loops Joel now wants them on the Voyager. Like the Sundowner the Voyager’s bow line is tied off to the carry handles and the canoes needs to be cantilevered forward in order for the bowline to clear the windshield wipers.

P9220015 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Tied through flanged stem loops will move the bowline 15” forward and the Voyager can be shifted backward on the racks with the bowline still clearing the windshield. The Transit has receivers for three racks above the cargo area. . . .and none above the cab. Design oversight for a cargo vehicle.

Joel and Kathy paid a shop visit so we could determine the best location for an adjustable bow foot brace bar. It was semi-comical at times, but we got it done.

P9250009 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The end product, after incrementally cutting an inch and another inch off the outer bar, and an inch off the inner telescoping bar fit perfectly. Joel marked and cut thrice, an inch at a time until the telescoping bars could be slid fully forward or fully back with enough meat in the middle to keep them rigid.

P9260013 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Custom work, a cute little thing

After dropping wing nuts parts on the floor several times it was clear why I provided extra wing nuts to be stored inside the telescoping bars. “Oh, I need to unscrew the wing nut to move the foot brace. Kerplunk”

Joel drilled out and replaced a couple of failed SS mini D-rings to which his back band clips. Fortunately, I had a couple better quality 316 stainless mini D’s.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072P ... UTF8&psc=1

Unfortunately, I was Kathy-captivated and didn’t properly observe Joel’s work; he pop riveted the plates on the outside of the inwale instead of between the wale and hull.

P9260011 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Oopsie, those D-rings would pull through the mandrel head over time, maybe very little time. I drilled them out later and reinstalled them properly. Joel and I have both become increasingly shop befuddled of late, and I don’t think it’s just age.

During the test sit Kathy mentioned several times that she needed some place to keep her miscellanea in the narrow bow. A tapered bow bag hanging off the carry handle will work, especially since the painter line no longer needs be tied to that handle. There are a variety of tapered bow bags available.

https://comfykayak.com/canoe-bow-bag/?g ... HQQAvD_BwE

They fit well enough, +/- depending on the float tanks and taper of the bow, but the things you want handy tend to migrate to the bottom of the pouch necessitating blind grubbing about. If only there was something else that could be used by the bowman, something more multi-functional that could secure their hat, sunglasses, or gloves without leaning awkwardly forward three feet to unzip and dig through a bag.

Even more multi-functional would be - what shall I call it – a “utility thwart”. Our solo canoes (and decked canoes) all have permanently affixed utility thwarts, and I’ve put a few in the bows of tandems. I previously mentioned that a utility thwart would be handy in the Wenonah Sundowner.



Not only does Joel have a Spirit Sail, Kathy loves to fish and the sail mount is a Scotty rod base. The utility thwart may not always be needed or wanted; a clamp-on version will suffice.

Not as elaborate as the ones shown above, no water bottle holder. No deck hooks or pad eyes for compass or map case, at least not right off the bat; those just screw in with ¾” SS Flat Phillips screws and can be added later if desired. Just a basic utility thwart; a Scotty mount and some cross bungee to hold things like sunglasses and gloves.

Just needs a flush mount Scotty base, like the one that is still hiding in Joel’s van or shed or storage locker. Nothing like next day delivery.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001M4HT34?ps ... ct_details

Looking through the shop’s short supply of hardwood this one would work with a cup holder and more gee gaws but is too wide for a minimalist utility thwart.

P9240001 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

This 5 ½” wide piece would be better, but it is oak.

P9240002 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

What’s this buried piece with edges already run across the router, sanded and urethaned? Crikey, it’s a bow utility thwart, already cut to /____\ shape. I don’t even remember making it, or why I didn’t use it. Not yet drilled, a little too long and the side angles aren’t perfect, but with an inch trimmed off each side and the necessary holes drilled (and chamfered for bungee stretch) it fits like a charm.

P9240003 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Serendipity. I just need the clamps to hold it in place.

P9240004 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The aluminum ones are overkill, the plastic ones are awkwardly kludgy, but I have just the thing, gunwale clamps I’ve been saving for something special. Conk-made clamps.

P9240005 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I wonder how those will fit on that inwale shape? Like a glove, like they were made for it. Which they may have been. Thanks as always Conk, Joel and Kathy thank you as well.

P9260019 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Three coats of urethane on the drilled holes and cut sides later I could put the parts and pieces together.

P9240007 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

It was hard to wait for the third coat of urethane, but three coats are always worth the wait. Time to dress and install that puppy.

Gloves and glasses? Check

P9260015 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Rod holder? Check.

P9260016 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Spirit Sail? Check. The Sundowner would cruise effortlessly with a small downwind sail. Probably at a good trolling speed.

P9260020 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

That mount will accept any of Scottie’s accessories, from rod holders to tackle caddies to fish finder mounts. Not my canoe. Go crazy Kathy.

https://www.google.com/search?q=scotty+ ... nt=gws-wiz

Maybe a little hands-free trolling Kathy? Joel has the stern.

Hey, I thought you made that utility thwart for ME!
Nice work Mike.

I am a bit curious about the rod holder on the bow. When my bud and I troll just the person in the stern paddles unless there is a fairly strong headwind. Otherwise we are going too fast, at least for the species we catch. We, and others I know, wedge the butt of the rod between the knees, or against some pack or other object, rather than use a holder. It gives a faster reaction time IMO,

_________________

Old canoeists never die---they just smell that way.

That shows how much I know about fishing. I bought a senior consolidated license that covers everything from trout to tidal waters for $5. I bought one each of the past 3 years, and have cast a line a total of five times. Not been out fishing five times, cast five times. Boring; I’d rather be paddling.

I trout fished every trip when backpacking in the Rockies, but that was for eats and meats. I trolled on Lake Champlain every summer as a kid, but mostly I drove the boat while my dad fished. Running the boat was more fun.

If I were to fish today it would involve sitting beside some productive lake with a line in the water while reading a book, which is exactly how I fished in the Rockies, except this time I’d have a comfy camp chair.

Mostly I wanted the mount to accommodate Joel’s sail. There must be some use for Scotty rod holders, they sell a dozen different styles.

https://scotty.com/product-category/rod-holders/

The rod holder was a gift from someone who knows I use a Scotty mount for my Spirit Sail; it has never been on the water. I know Kathy does fish, she can buy whatever Scotty accessory she wants, or none. Maybe this ludicrous thing.

https://scotty.com/product/452-gear-caddy/

Just make sure your tray tables are in the upright position before landing.

After the Sundowner goes back on the water she and I will need to talk about alterations to the utility thwart. Chamfered hole for a hook remover? Pad eyes for attaching a map case? J-hooks for a deck compass mount, really handy when holding best course while sailing? I left room on the utility thwart for enhancements.

Kathy prefers a bench seat to a bucket slider. A few years ago we removed the bucket and installed a fixed double-contour bench seat. For kneeling and trim weight purposes we positioned the bench seat as far back as possible.

P9260001 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The seat looks uncomfortably close to the bar, but Kathy uses a partially deflated Therma-Rest pad as a seat cushion. I love those myself, but they are so lightweight the pad will take flight on windy days when not anchored by a paddler’s weight.

P9260002 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Easily resolved; remove the seat and install two webbing straps, loose enough to slip in the deflated pad. A couple lengths of 1” webbing, a few SS staples and presto, seat pad keeper straps.

P9260003 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Deflate the pad, slip it under the keeper straps, open the nozzle and let it partially reinflate, get comfy. The webbing straps curl the pad around the front rail of the seat for more pleasant kneeling.

P9260008 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I’d like to replace those two long webbing loops used for the back band straps with 316 stainless mini D-rings pop riveted under the inwale. Enough so that I ordered a few (I had one left). Probably should have ordered 10, I’m sure I’ll eventually need more.

P9300038 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PQNGRW?ps ... ct_details

I think those are much easier to clip a back band strap to than a loop of 1” webbing. Kathy’s canoe, Kathy’s call on whether to replace the webbing loops with D-rings.

The Sundowner bow is getting more comfortable and functional by the day. We had installed minicel knee bumpers below the inwales when we put in the bench seat, and there was shop discussion about adding thin minicel slabs to the existing pieces to cover the still-bare ouchy aluminum inwale.

P9260014 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I don’t remember where we landed on the yea and nays of that discussion. Doesn’t matter, this is what’s known as a Command Decision, as in “There’s no one around to tell me not to”.

That decision was made easier by Conk, who once sent me a box of bandsaw cut knee bumpers with beveled edges in various dimensions and thicknesses. I love putting Conk parts and pieces in canoes; every rebuilt or outfitted canoe for the last few years has some Conk in it.

P9260011 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I had two larger slices left, 9” x 6”, a perfect 3/8” thick, edges already beveled. Just need to cut 1 ½” off so they match the size of the existing knee bumpers.

P9260010 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The usual, first some dry test-fit practice to see how I am going to hold and position the minicel for insta-stuck action, then three timed coats of contact cement on both minicel surfaces, a little heat gun action and pray my aim is true.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ao9WLBNcP6M

While I was in minicel mode I checked the tenacity of the kneeling pads in the stern. What is the opposite of tenacity? I’ll go with “Get a grip dammmit”.

P9260012 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

There was a reason for that edge lift; those minicel pads were installed using double sided foam tape, randomly spaced tape, none near the perimeter of the pad. The pads were lifted along every edge.

P9260013 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I have two questions. Which previous owner did the original outfitting on the Sundowner, Rootsie or Willie, and what were they thinking?

Another command decision. Those pads are still in excellent condition and Joel is an occasional kneeler. I didn’t want to tear the pads completely off, some areas are still decently tape stuck and I’d risk tearing the minicel, but I can get some contact cement under the lifted edges, and maybe later run a bead of E-6000 around the perimeter. The E-6000 sounds like a Joel-job.

Knee bumper extensions underway.

P9260018 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

My aim was true. Clamped in place.

P9270020 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Stern kneeling pads contact cemented.

P9260016 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Can’t clamp those in place but some weights will hold them down until the contact cement cures.

P9270021 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Meanwhile I can prep some materials for Joel’s next shop day. I was out of conduit box adapters and we’ll need a couple for the Voyager. I made a mistake on the last batch, leaving the bar code labels on the necks before spray painting the flanges black. Those labels are difficult to remove; 91% isopropyl helped, but it also took off some paint.

P9270022 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I bought another batch. HomeDespot had nine in stock, I wanted ten; two for the Voyager bow (it has a rudder in the stern) and eight more, enough to do two canoes bow and stern.

This time I soaked the box adapters in vinegar and the labels came off residue free. A little buzzbuzz on the 1” belt sander removed the raised lettering on the flanges.

P9270025 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

A little buzzbuzz, a little pffftpffft of black spray paint and another stash of box adapters is ready to go.

P9270026 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Prep work done in time for Joel to stop by the next day for some foot brace pop rivet lamination prep work. He was in the cross-town area and managed to pay a too -brief shop visit; “I only have 40 minutes”.

I told him “I want four Sharpie dots where the foot brace rail pop rivets go”, handing him rulers and markers. Well, eight Sharpie dots, I’ll explain the extra four later.

Getting the Sharpie dot locations to Joel’s satisfaction took a lot of “No, that can’t be right” and “Dammit how is that still off” vocalizations, including an “OH NO, OH GOD!” before I had to intercede.

P9280028 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Joel dotted the hull inside and out for hole locations. With the faintest of hard to discern fly speck Sharpie dots. “Joel, the interior dot will be covered by the rail, and the out outside the hull by the flange rivet head. It doesn’t need to be that exactingly precise; no one will ever notice 1/16th of an inch off one way or the other”.

That “You measure and mark” technique means the boat owner/hole marker can’t say “Oh that looks off” when it is done.

Sharpie dots marked in time for Joel to tape out 2 ½” square tape box for lamination and cut squares of material; 1” squares of E-glass tape, 1 ½” squares of bia-axial woven Twaron tape, 2” squares of Kevlar tape. Well, the 1 ½” squares of Twaron tape ended up 1 ½” x 2”. Good enough, no worries.

P9290034 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

As he was taping Joel mentioned that he was running late because he had been to the symphony last night to hear Dvorak. I disappeared to the shop office, cued up symphony #9 on the computer speakers and blasted it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_1N6_O254g

After a few minutes of that highbrow stuff I played something else, at even higher volume.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5oTrvdNoP4

It seemed to spur his tape job along faster than Dvorak.

P9290029 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I wish Joel could have stayed for the fabric lamination; with the area tape boxed, the materials pre-cut and the epoxy already on the bench that took a whopping 10 minutes.

1” E-glass tape first

P9290030 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Then 1 ½” bias weave Twaron tape.

P9290031 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Then 2” Kevlar tape.

P9290032 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Release treated peel ply and repeat hard roller action.

P9290033 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The next morning the Sundowner was flipped over and the other side was done, no need for Joel to drive 45 minutes each way for 10 minutes work.

A few comments and questions:
1. That was quite an entertaining read
2. why did you need to remove the seat to add the Thermarest pad?
3 Is there something different or special about Conk? I couldn't find a website
4. you need to buy a better brand of coffee,

_________________

Old canoeists never die---they just smell that way.

1.The Sundowner isn’t finished yet. Joel still has some work to do, Kathy has some outfitting decisions to make and I may do a couple little things without prior permission.

2.The webbing straps have SS staples on the bottom of the frame holding them in place. It is easier to cut the webbing at the right length, snug but not too snug, and install the staples with the seat on the workbench.

3. Conk is a friend and craftsman, and very generous with his work. He makes brightwork for a couple different canoe manufacturers and I believe his “Conk Seats”, including custom variations, are the best available.

https://www.hemlockcanoe.com/conk-seats.html

4.Jeeze, Maxwell house. Yuck. I think those cans, which fit perfectly in plastic 2L soda bottle bins, were from my mother-in-law. I drink a “custom” blend of coffee; a mx of Folger’s Blond Silk for bulk and Starbuck’s Pike Place for flavor.

A bulk and flavor question for you. In Desert Solitaire what pipe tobaccos do Abbey and Newcomb mix together as they raft down the Colorado?

Thx for the info.

If if use a Thermarest set my plan would be to use buckles(e.g. ladderlock) to attach. I assumed you were using buckles of some sort.
BTW--that's a good looking back strap. What brand?

I thought Conk was a foam pad supplier. What sort of foam would you recommend for knee pads? I have some sort of yellow/orange quite dense foam at the rear of one of my canoes that works quite well but have no idea where it came from.

My wife is quite hooked on Kicking Horse coffee---having some right now. Given your comments on various libations I assumed you must have better taste than Maxwell House.

Re Abby et al---lemme get back to you on that later...........maybe much later

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Old canoeists never die---they just smell that way.

I used straps with ladder locks as the original pad keepers. Worked OK, but any excess strap hanging down after tensioning the webbing was an ankle tickler with feet under the seat. The bigger issue was that during transport, without the pad in place snugging the straps (I am not risking a Therma-rest pad along the highway), I needed to fully tighten the webbing around the seat frame lest the loose straps and ladder locks go whappitywhappity on the road, and on arrival loosen the straps to slip in the pad and re-tension. The less diddling with ladder locks I need to do bent over the canoe the happier my back.

Arriving at a put in I discovered one webbing strap was missing, loosened enough in the whappitywhappity even after pulling it taut to work its way free. Fortunately I keep spare webbing straps and ladder locks in the truck.

And in the Essentials bag; a couple feet of 1” webbing and a Dritz parachute buckle are handy for a variety of webbing repairs. The Dritz buckles incorporate ladder locks on both male and female ends.

https://www.joann.com/parachute-buckle- ... LEEALw_wcB

On a long drive anything loose, rope or webbing going whappitywhappity or height adjustable seats rattling, makes me crazy. Or not a long drive; I pull over and secure any annoying noisemakers. With two or more boats on the roof racks the offending whappitywhapper is sometimes hard to reach and bad words are said.

The back band is a Surf-to-Summit Performance back band. Every boat we own is set up with four pad eyes to clip on a backband. The “secret” to clipping those back bands in place, or actually to removing them, is to only loosen one strap.

So that I am not confused when reinstalling the back band I loosen one of the rear straps and unclip it. The other three straps are now droopy and easy to unclip, but those three straps remain at the perfect length for that seat and me. To put the back band on again just clip-clip-clip-clip and tighten whichever strap is loose in the back; perfect location every time.

We have (a family) four of them and have for years. That style is the only thing I have found to be lower back supportive but flexible enough to permit torso rotation. The “back rest” stuff with rigid bars or stays is uncomfortable for me; I’m not looking for a “recliner”, just some lower back support. YMMV.

https://www.surftosummit.com/products/p ... -back-band

If you are not averse to identical, probably made in the same factory Chinese knock-offs, these are an exact copy of the Surf-to-Summit Performance back bands, except I like the knock-off clip attachment style better.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093CPVDDZ?ps ... ct_details

Conk is a dear friend, and my personal custom minicel supplier; a lot of that stuff is cut-offs and cast offs from mincel stuff he makes. His sculpted minicel yoke pads are clever and comfortable, and being minicel can be further shaped for custom physiology fit.

https://www.hemlockcanoe.com/conk-solo- ... -yoke.html

IRRC those yoke pads are actually made from two cojoined yoga blocks. The barrel trapper wedges are Conk cut-offs.

PA160003 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

PA180035 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I use minicel or EVA yoga block foam for knee bumpers. I find no difference in knee comfort or durability between the two foams, but yoga blocks are the least expensive way to buy a chunk of foam. Big-box store availability.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Athletic-Wor ... om=/search

Or in quantity cheaper ordered by the 10 pack.

https://www.sunshineyoga.com/sunshine-y ... 9-10-pack/

I prefer grey or black foam in a canoe, although I have used some bright blue yoga blocks, used because they were shop stock available. Wish I hadn’t used their blueness, but too late, they are there now. The yoga block edges are already beveled, which is a help in avoiding right angle sheer forces on knee bumpers.

Thanks for bringing Desert Solitaire to mind. That slender volume has some of my favorite Abbey stories; I just pulled a copy from the bookshelves to reread.

https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/214 ... l5B&rank=1

My dad turned me on to Edward Abbey; he gave me Desert Solitaire and I didn’t read it until after he passed. That was a missed opportunity on my part. One of too many.