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 Post subject: Canoe cart tips
PostPosted: October 19th, 2021, 8:36 am 
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Joined: October 19th, 2013, 6:30 am
Posts: 146
I will be using a canoe cart for the first time in Nov. I will ever be hauling it about 6 km on dirt road.I plan on attaching my leather toboggan straps to under the bow and walk a few feet in front. Any experienced cart users here to add any tips?


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 Post subject: Re: Canoe cart tips
PostPosted: October 19th, 2021, 11:06 am 
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Joined: March 23rd, 2006, 11:21 pm
Posts: 1291
Location: Burns Lake, BC
I'm 6'3" and most of our boats have little rocker so putting a cart in the middle doesn't give me enough room to stand and pull from the front without the stern hitting the ground.

- So first, I turn the boat around so the bow (with more rocker) is trailing. This helps to allow me to lift the stern a little higher up front without the bow hitting in the back.

- I load 75% of my gear in the boat putting it between the yoke and the bow seat (closer to the rear) and I strap down the large packs. Use small items to finely balance the load so it's perfect.

- I tie my painter to the centre of the yoke and put a hand loop in the other end. Pulling from the central position of the yoke is very stable and keeps steering a lot easier. My wife usually handles the yoke rope and she's able to move 360ยบ around the boat without interfering my pulling on the front thwart. On downhills she can hang back and apply a brake for the boat while I steer down the hill. On uphills she can help pull and stay out of my way while I steer and pull up the hill.

- Use four camlock straps to secure the boat to the cart (one for each corner). Four straps means that it does not move at all.
Ask anyone else about using just two straps on a wilderness portage. It's not very secure when hitting bumps and it then causes an imbalance for your load and you will waste time and energy temporarily fixing it.
One strap use belongs in the city with non-paddlers and asphalt portages.

- Maybe a repair kit for your cart?
The one time I didn't have a patch kit we had to braid long grass together and then stuffed it in the deflated wheel to offer some support and we hobbled out the 1km portage.

I would also say to leave the cart at home if the portage is anything less than an old road.
Bowron Lakes is the only place where a cart can be used on a portage.


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 Post subject: Re: Canoe cart tips
PostPosted: October 19th, 2021, 11:36 am 
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Joined: August 28th, 2021, 7:49 pm
Posts: 21
Location: Vancouver, BC
Not a cart user, admittedly... Still, one tip, FWIW: if you're able, pack light enough that you could still carry your gear in a reasonable number of trips if the cart breaks down. We've seen a few breakdowns, and it can be a real drag (literally!).

Canoeheadted wrote:
I would also say to leave the cart at home if the portage is anything less than an old road.
Bowron Lakes is the only place where a cart can be used on a portage.


Also good advice :)


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 Post subject: Re: Canoe cart tips
PostPosted: October 19th, 2021, 3:57 pm 
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Joined: December 19th, 2006, 8:47 pm
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Unclear if the OP is using a center loaded cart or an end loader. The latter I find untenable and portaging is easier.
We have a center loaded cart. Some now have solid tires so the puncture factor no longer applies. We have a cart with inflatable tires. Of course one mile in .. the tire went flat and we had forgotten the pump. I agree with CHT's steering and braking suggestions. Its far easier than in front.


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 Post subject: Re: Canoe cart tips
PostPosted: October 20th, 2021, 8:04 am 
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Joined: December 29th, 2002, 7:00 pm
Posts: 6337
Location: Bancroft, Ontario Canada
DB Cooper...

Quote:
I plan on attaching my leather toboggan straps to under the bow and walk a few feet in front.


I found it easier to simply hold onto the handle next to the bow deckplate... this prevents the bow and stern from rocking up and down and hitting the ground. I don't know about others' carts, mine holds the canoe about a foot off the ground when moving forward and the stern almost never hits the ground... if there is a shallow gully washed out, the wheels will drop into the depression and then the stern will drag.

X2 on keeping things light, esp if there are hills... for me, pulling a heavily-loaded canoe cart up a hill is more exhausting than porting pack and canoe separately. Or the lighter, unloaded canoe if the hill isn't too steep. Another problem on hills, going solo, is there are no brakes to keep a cart from rolling back downhill when a rest is needed.

Keeping a saw in the canoe ready to cut out blowdowns might save some time. Old, overgrown roads with lots of blowdowns won't be cartable, gotta carry.

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 Post subject: Re: Canoe cart tips
PostPosted: October 20th, 2021, 1:25 pm 
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Joined: June 21st, 2001, 7:00 pm
Posts: 564
Location: Woodstock, Ontario Canada
If it is a there and back trip we use a garden wagon. Pulls easy and the canoe balances on the wagon, no lifting just pulling. Still it is nice to have a second person walking beside the canoe and wagon in case of big ruts and blow down. A couple pool noodles on the cart for padding and two straps to hold it on wagon.

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Listen to advice and accept instruction, and in the end you will be wise. Prov. 19:20


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 Post subject: Re: Canoe cart tips
PostPosted: October 22nd, 2021, 9:12 am 
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Joined: October 19th, 2013, 6:30 am
Posts: 146
A few useful points. Thanks all


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