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PostPosted: August 4th, 2019, 11:08 am 
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Location: Guelph, Ontario
Yah, I should have started sooner instead of leaving it to the long weekend before we leave on our canoe trip.

I'm working on installing a new North Water spray deck on my tandem and they're obviously not open for me to ask this question of them. The instructions say to drill the holes through the hull 5.5" down from the gunnel so that a thin rope loop secured to a vinyl patch (see attached image) can be fed through which is used for securing the spray deck to the hull. Well drilling 5.5' down would have me putting holes through the closed foam cell that are run the side walls from bow seat to stern seat. Not a problem in the summer but if some water got in and the the canoe was exposed to freezing temperature that could lead to delamination of the hull.

So my question is. What are the ramifications of raising the holes along the mid section of the canoe to say 4.5 or 4" down from the gunnel instead of 5.5 " and missing the closed foam cell. Will it compromise how securely the spray deck fits to the canoe? I just don't know what the down side is.

The one suggestion that I have received is that if I did drill through the foam cell to use a automotive urethane adhesive instead of the vinyl-tec adhesive that was supplied. This adhesive is supper strong and is cured with water I'm told yet remains somewhat flexible and thus potentially would seal out the water from coming in.

So I need to start it later today or tomorrow so I welcome the wisdom on the forum to help guide me.
thanks
Dave


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PostPosted: August 4th, 2019, 11:46 am 
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Joined: June 28th, 2001, 7:00 pm
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Location: Freeland, Maryland USA
Dave, I don’t think an inch or inch and a half difference in the location of those holes will make a critical difference. The sides of the covers will still be the same distance below the outwale; you would need to adjust the cord to a slightly sharper V with a higher loop patch.

Dave_k wrote:
The one suggestion that I have received is that if I did drill through the foam cell to use a automotive urethane adhesive instead of the vinyl-tec adhesive that was supplied. This adhesive is supper strong and is cured with water I'm told yet remains somewhat flexible and thus potentially would seal out the water from coming in.


With the vinyl loop pad sealing the interior side of the holes my concern, like yours, would be water infiltrating the foam from outside the hull. Some pliably sealant “might” seal those holes around the cord loop, but it would be an unverifiable “might”, especially with tension and wear potentially developing over time on the loop holes.

If you haven’t already begun, can you do a test install with the cover using pieces of tape to hold the spray cover perimeter line down V V V V V V to see how it looks.

EDIT: Please let us know what you do and the results.


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PostPosted: August 4th, 2019, 3:23 pm 
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Location: Guelph, Ontario
Mike, thanks for the input. I think I'm inclined to agree with you. I'm just starting in on the bow and stern patches that can be placed the 5.5" down from the gunnel as instructed. I won't get to the mid-hull patches in question until later thus leaving this question open to someone to propose another point of view.
Dave


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PostPosted: August 4th, 2019, 5:54 pm 
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Dave,
I have some limited experience installing spray deck patches so take my opinion fwiw.
I agree with Mike. It should not matter how far down the patch is because the cord that runs through the deck and patches should equalize the forces holding the deck in place. If I recall, the amount of material that hangs down over the side of the canoe is less than 5.5 inches and the amount that hangs over the side is variable depending upon your load. I suspect that they have discovered that the 5.5 inches is optimal when the load is small and the deck is pulled down as tightly as it will go, however, I think you will be fine with slightly less distance in a few places.
I would be more reluctant to drill holes through my foam core than to try a slightly smaller distance in a few places.


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PostPosted: August 5th, 2019, 9:16 pm 
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Joined: January 11th, 2005, 4:58 pm
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Location: Manitoba
5.5 inches is a guide.
Put the spray deck on and see how it fits. The key is to keep the loop patches above the waterline and to keep they below the spray deck so that the lacing forms a V pattern. Maybe 5” below the gunwales is ideal but a slightly shallower or steeper V pattern should be fine.

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http://www.JohnstonPursuits.ca

 


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PostPosted: August 6th, 2019, 8:23 pm 
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Well, it installed. Thanks to those who responded for the guidance. I raised the hole for the loop patches to 4.25" inches in the area from bow seat to Stern seat.. Thankfully the rope on the loop patches is short. It hold the decking in place. The 5.5" inches would provided a snugger fit.

FYI. Based on some advice I received in case I did drill through foam cells below the gunnel I bought and installed the loop patch in the first three rows of the bow and stern with a Polyurethane Adhesive Sealant. It is black and messy so I used disposable gloves. As advised I used automotive masking take and cut a circular area around the patch so that when the black adhesive was squeezed out the sides it wouldn't made a mess on the hull interior. It seemed tougher to work with and the masking took a while. I made the mistake of using a single patch to create every masking tape masked and all patches are not cut identically. I worked but wasn't perfect. I used the Vinyl Tech provided for another couple of the patches and found it easier to work with and created a better looking result so I applied it the remaining patches. We will see if there is any difference in how they hold up. The patches with the Polyurethane will be behind the bow and stern air bags so I won't need to look at them as often. ;-). Another recommendation was to use Stabond instead of the Vinyl Tech but I didn't have a chance to source any of that. Now on with the paddling and using this spray deck.


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