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PostPosted: November 11th, 2021, 6:28 pm 
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Joined: September 14th, 2021, 10:36 pm
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I'm a long time paddler using a Nova prospector 16 (15'6" actually) as tandem and considering a change to a 17' for reason of cargo space and doing longer trips. I'm well aware of the claims but I'd like to know exactly how those experienced with longer (2-4 week) trips actually use the space. Because the thing is, I'm able to get two 60 l barrels of food and two drybags (70,50l) of personal gear into my 16 and neatly cap it with a skirt and live well up to 10 days. I can imagine getting 4 barrels into a 17 but that wouldn't buy me any more litres. Do you use smaller bags to take up the nooks and crannies? I should further qualify, nothing over the gunwale lines, all must be neatly skirted.


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PostPosted: November 11th, 2021, 7:14 pm 
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Joined: June 20th, 2001, 7:00 pm
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Location: Toronto, Ontario Canada
I trip in a boat that it 14' 3" (Mohawk XL14), I find it more than sufficient to carry everything I need for trips up to 7 or 8 weeks in length and I am NOT a light packer.

My standard cargo:

One x 115L dry bag
One x 60L barrel
One x MEC Scully (100L) dry bag
One x large shelter in it's own bag (equivalent in size to a 6 person tent)
One x soft-sided cooler (24 can size)
One x 2 person tent in it's own dry bag
One x 10L day bag
One or two x pelican camera cases

The XL14 is a deep boat with blunt ends so it can hold more than a boat that is not so deep and has sharp ends. With the gear listed above only the barrel rises above the gunnels but it's only about one inch.

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PostPosted: November 11th, 2021, 8:34 pm 
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Joined: March 23rd, 2006, 11:21 pm
Posts: 1271
Location: Burns Lake, BC
Gear pretty much stays the same, it's the extra food. 2lb per day per person

Short trips in a smaller boat are OK too as it can be easier to handle an emergency.

On long trips (duration or distance) the extra freeboard is another plus in a safety aspect.


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PostPosted: November 12th, 2021, 10:14 am 
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Joined: September 14th, 2021, 10:36 pm
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Ok, so here’s a theoretical answer to my own question. If the thwarts are placed appropriately in a 17, I’ll be able stow as major pieces 3 barrels and one large dry bag, perhaps my 70 l or even larger. In addition to the spare paddle and perhaps fishing rod at ready that I already stow down the sides of my 16, in a 17 I’ll be able to store another 50-100 l of gear packaged in 10-20 l bags into the sides and between barrels that I can assemble into an otherwise mostly empty portage bag when it’s time to portage that gear. In this way, I’d increment my cargo by one (food) barrel. Then, as the trip progresses , I can consolidate the minor pieces. That seems like one way to exploit the marginal extra space, practical?


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PostPosted: November 12th, 2021, 11:00 am 
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Joined: July 9th, 2003, 11:48 am
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Location: Back to Winnipeg
I haven't done the type of tripping that requires me to think in this much detail about packing my boats, or maybe I'm just not wired that way - if I was finding 16' boat squishy, I'd consider a 17'er, and just take it from there - so, I have nothing to add but this:

recped, if you fit 7-8 weeks of gear into a 14'3" boat, sorry, you ARE a light packer!

P.

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PostPosted: November 12th, 2021, 2:00 pm 
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Location: Toronto, Ontario Canada
Quote:
recped, if you fit 7-8 weeks of gear into a 14'3" boat, sorry, you ARE a light packer!


Come and help me on my 5 carry portages and you might change your mind!

My starting gear/food weight on these trips is in the 250lb range and that doesn't include things like a throw bag, 3 paddles, drysuit, cameras etc etc.

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PostPosted: November 12th, 2021, 2:34 pm 
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Joined: October 6th, 2005, 8:02 am
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Location: a bit south ofWinnipeg
Maybe look for a 16ft canoe that really is 16ft!

It's the bit in the middle that you lose.

Can you move the thwart on the 16? They often place the stern thwart too far from the seat/too close to the yoke.

Multiple small bags will drive you crazy and increase the chance of leaving something at a portage.

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PostPosted: November 12th, 2021, 3:00 pm 
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Joined: August 27th, 2002, 7:00 pm
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Location: Geraldton, Ontario Can
I moved the rear thwart back in the 16 foot Nova Craft prospectors so that four barrels would fit. It was only a few inches, still lots of leg room. I'm a fan of always going bigger, if you don't mind carrying the extra weight, go 17.


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PostPosted: November 30th, 2021, 10:11 pm 
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Joined: September 14th, 2021, 10:36 pm
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Skinny dry bags to fill the cracks between barrels and be assembled into a larger portage bag when required, they're hard to find, maybe this company....

https://www.jpwinc.com/product/canoe-st ... 8d115eb4b3


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PostPosted: December 1st, 2021, 5:33 am 
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Location: Waterloo, ON
For long trips I generally prefer the overflow food to be in medium sized dry bags (20-30L). They can be easily packed in the nooks, and carried by hand while you’ve got a barrel or pack on your back. The advantage is that you eliminate bags as you go, packing the excess into the barrel as space becomes available. If you bring too many barrels you’re stuck carrying them even when they’re empty.

I’ve done solo trips up to 30 days and was able to get by, triple carrying the ports.

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PostPosted: December 1st, 2021, 8:14 am 
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Joined: June 28th, 2001, 7:00 pm
Posts: 2097
Location: Freeland, Maryland USA
I am a heavy packer, or at least a large volume of gear packer, and use spray covers, so I understand the square-peg-in-round-hole nooks and crannies challenge.

Using a bunch of smaller or skinnier linear bags works to some degree, but having a lot of smaller bags is its own pain in a lot of ways. I DIY’ed some custom dry bags using heat sealable material, starting with long skinny dry bag for our ThermaRest pads.

The biggest square-peg-round-hole space waster remained the canoe stems. For our decked canoes, where gear space is even more problematic, I DIY’ed custom tapered bags for the under deck stems. While those worked very well in the decked boats they didn’t fill the stems of our tripping canoes, so I made larger custom stem bags for our open boats.

https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/t ... ags.84454/

Those tapers fill the stems nicely, but being in the stems I don’t want them packed with weighty gear. Packed with lighter stuff it is easy to strap them atop a pack or barrel for carries.

The first time I used them on a trip I was amazed at how much nook and cranny space had been wasted trying to fit O into /_\.

Serendipitously the tapered bags I made for my principal tripping canoe fit agreeably in most of our other canoes, and I’ve since made others in different volumes.

These are all DIY’ed custom dry bags for different nooks, crannies and purposes.

ImagePA070115 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Those heat sealable fabric dry bags are easy enough to make. If anyone opts to go that route I recommend making a simpler cylindrical bag first, for something like a sleeping pad, before making a tapered bag. And save/label the paper templates, I guarantee you will want to make more.


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PostPosted: December 3rd, 2021, 7:09 pm 
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Joined: September 14th, 2021, 10:36 pm
Posts: 13
I'm liking the DIY custom bag concept, that could stretch out 16' hull's range. Mike, your link didn't mention the product name or supplier. Some you tube videos indicate there are products that seal with 200 C(400F) , something like... https://www.rockywoods.com/FABRICS/Tech ... le-Fabrics
The tapered bag shown laid flat in your link looks rectangular, perhaps it just tapers as the clasp ends are brought together? Also, did you use a household iron or did you buy one of those mini irons with the adjustable temp?


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