Anyone have a favorite way of tying down the bow of their canoe to the hood? I'd prefer not to run line down to a tow point on the frame, so hoping for some good options to permanently attach tie down points to either side of the hood. 5th gen Toyota 4Runner for reference.

These days I just use those webbing/hose things than you trap under the hood when you need them. However, if you want something permanent you can attach webbing loops using any of the bolts on the sheet metal inside the hood and then just flip the loops back under the hood when not in use.

Webbing loops attached to one of the bolts (closest to the front) under the hood. Burn a hole in the webbing using a soldering iron or hot nail.

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"What else could I do? I had no trade so I became a peddler" - Lazarus Greenberg 1915

Any particular reason not to tow pts on the frame? They are more solid than anything else

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Old canoeists never die---they just smell that way.

this is what I've done in the past, but the cord rubs on the hood, grill, and bumper and I'm hoping to have this truck for a very long time. Have my hands full with salt on the roads.

I put pieces of foam/sponge at the rub pts.. My bud uses old rags.

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Old canoeists never die---they just smell that way.

Doc,

See this vintage topic. I posted a couple of photos depicting the set-up I used:

https://myccr.com/phpbbforum/viewtopic. ... hilit=hood

There are usually bolts on each side under the hood on any vehicle that you can use as attachment points for a couple of webbing straps to slip out when you need to carry a boat. Then attach your lines to that. the straps won't abrade the pain along the edge of the hood.

- JF -

On a 4Runner tying to the frame doesn't give much of a spread which inevitably leads to the bow moving left/right when at high speed, when trucks pass or high winds.

This \/ much better than this ||

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"What else could I do? I had no trade so I became a peddler" - Lazarus Greenberg 1915

found some options on London paddle shop if anyone is curious

https://www.londonspaddleshop.com/produ ... tie-strap/

https://www.londonspaddleshop.com/produ ... ood-loops/

yeah, for a vehicle that is incredibly capable, the tie down points aren't ideal!

I use hood loops that are attached to a section of hose
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-an ... 07416.html

I like that they are removable and adjustable to fit the length of the canoe.. I always run the rope from a thwart directly down to the hood loop.. The rope is perpendicular to the hood . not at an angle.. The loops do not slide.

We used to use fixed hood loops since 1996 but there was never an ideal place to secure the loop for all boats that allowed a direct downward force in case of accident.

Lots of good suggestions.
I’m sure searching this forum will reveal past posts on the same topic.

I’ve had good success with under the vehicle tie down points as well those place anywhere under the hood hose & webbing loops, under the hood webbing loops secured under a frame bolt, and simple cord loops wrapped around each hood hinge.

Although a V shaped bow attachment is commonplace I’ve also seen a single bow line going straight forward—perhaps less visual interference while driving.

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Brian
http://www.JohnstonPursuits.ca

 

Quite true but the bolts under the hood of my old Corolla were too far back to restrain backward mvmt.

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Old canoeists never die---they just smell that way.

I like tow rings as front tie downs, even though they are typically pulling the canoe forward. If the stern tie points are also pulling forward \-------\ I tie a short length of rope between a thwart and rack crossbar pulling (holding) the canoe backwards.

Without some oppositional force driving downhill on a washboard road to the river too often resulted in the canoe(s) walking slightly forward, noticeably from the suddenly slack bowline.

Tow rings, while uber sturdy tie points, can have other issues. Some rings are right angle rough hard on rope and benefit from a large carabiner for bowline longevity. Same for the rough metal on some trailer hitches in the rear.

Some tow rings are so far under the bumper that it is hands and knees to pass a rope through, not fun in mud, or when your knees get so old that getting back up is a challenge.

Our old CR-V had decently smooth tow rings, reachable with having to crawl under car, but the front of the hood had a \__/ shape and the tow rings were close to the edge. We discovered the hard way that bowlines could (would) slip past that angled edge and quickly burn through while rubbing against a front tire. Surprisingly “What the hell just happened!” quickly.

The immediate solution was to cross the bowlines in an X; the better solution was to install under hood webbing ties.

And some vehicles offer no viable place for an under hood webbing tie. A friend has a high-roof Ford Transit cargo van. Every “bolt” at the edge of the hood is plastic. Not just plastic, but plastic bolts going into a plastic frame. I wouldn’t trust plastic bolts, much less plastic bolts into plastic housing. Next solution. . . . .

The edges of the engine compartment have runs of various wires and tubes everywhere a flexible hose and webbing tie could be placed, at least without the bowline interfering with the windshield wipers. Ford did not design that vehicle with bow line use in mind.

The next solution took us way too long to figure out. The bumpers are, of course, plastic, but behind the plastic is sturdy metal. Even better, the bolts for a license tag are beefy threaded hex heads. Same webbing loop with a melted bolt hole as under hood ties and presto, we didn’t need eye bolts, or newly drilled holes.

PB030010 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Fortunately his State does not require a front tag, but if it did the loops could be made just 1” long, so they didn’t dangle when not in use, obscuring the tag.

The bowlines off tag bolts clear the wipers nicely, and the license tag loops provide always-there tie points.

PB030014 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

My canoe is held on my racks by the two straps holding the hull to the rack.

Each strap is holding the canoe down and stopping the migration towards that end of the vehicle.
If you have a strap on each side of the widest part of the canoe, then the canoe can not move anywhere because of the opposing force.

I also have one (or two) stem lines in front of the windshield that are mainly a visual reference to warn you of problems with your belly staps. They come loose, check your main straps.

Just my thoughts... if you are relying on those stem ropes to hold your load down then something is missing from your canoe tie-down process. (gear or knowledge)

I would suggest using foam blocks to eat up some of the unwanted energy experienced by your canoe while on the travelling rack and using grab loops instead of tying directly to the canoe for the same reasons.

This is just what works for me.

Get another tow hook and install both of them permanently on your 4runner for a bombproof tiedown.
It's a tool to use, not a toy to look at.
I say use it.