Woodrow, a friend from across the Bay, came by the shop to pick up some boat and rack parts that were taking up valuable storage space; a couple of Phase3 seats, some rudder pedals, SS cable & tubing, Yakima Hully Rollers & cradles, and whatever oddball stuff long in storage I could send home with him.
P3270001 by
Mike McCrea, on Flickr
That was a considerable volume of outfitting stuff rehomed, and nature abhors a vacuum. Without a shop project boat to diddle with it was time to replenish the supply of other give-away stuff.
Starting with a few more “canoe consoles”. A full bun gift of 3” thick minicel years ago saw a “production” run of several dozen consoles. Add another several dozen made when I had minicel chunks, and later Yoga blocks, and that supply had begun to run low. Time to make a new batch with sundry leftover supplies.
I had 5 ½” wide scraps of lumber, for most boatwork purposes either too short poplar or too heavy oak, and a variety of used or scrap Yoga blocks, as well as a few new ones.
P3300003 by
Mike McCrea, on Flickr
The 9” x 6” x 3” versions are a better depth for core drilling with a hole saw bit. Still needed to drill in from both sides, even with a 2” deep hole saw, so first a pilot hole all the way through, for aligning hole saw aim.
Good to use up scrap foam and wood. Core drilled two holers and one holer on the short scrap piece. The Blue (purple?) one in the background is a WallyWorld 9” x 6” x 4”, too thick to core cleanly, smells of artificial grape and the color looks hideous in a canoe; orphaned back on the shelf it went.
P3300005 by
Mike McCrea, on Flickr
That hole saw drilling is messy, and makes a pile of dust. Easily swept away. But, true to my Scots heritage, I pondered waste not, want not; is there any use for minicel dust? Couldn’t think of any and into the trash. I was still left with the foam cores, a refill for the box of drilled minicel cylinders.
P3300007 by
Mike McCrea, on Flickr
Any use for a box full of 3” diameter foam cylinder with pre-drilled centers? Delineated “swim area”? Dead Fish Polo perimeter? Floaties for really skinny arms? Too volume costly to ship, local pick-up only. Dang it; I could have thrown a few of those in Woodrow’s take home box. Maybe next time.
Cut bases so the foam has a “weighted” bottom - good way to use up some too-short scrap lumber – and run the edges though the router.
P3300010 by
Mike McCrea, on Flickr
Those wood console bases, resting in the bilge water, needed multiple coats of urethane before attaching the console cup foam. Since 90% of the wood base will be unseen covered I just slopped that urethane on. Drips and sags? Who cares, four thick sloppy coats.
P3300011 by
Mike McCrea, on Flickr
The scrap from cutting the scrap wood was small enough even for a Scotsman to keep, thrown in the woodstove kindling bin.
P3300014 by
Mike McCrea, on Flickr
Foam perimeter and cylinder holes traced on the wood bases, so I know where to brush contact cement and, oops (I said something worse than “oops”) I neglected to drill drain holes before urethaning. I know better, I want drain holes in the base for spills or heavy rain.
P4010027 by
Mike McCrea, on Flickr
Crud, new holes means more urethane work. With drain holes drilled and sealed and foam contact cemented in place the wood needed an anti-slide bottom. Neoprene contact cemented to the bottoms does well, providing near suction cup action in RX canoes.
The neoprene covered the drilled and urethaned holes, but a hot nail head melt/seals the neoprene to reveal the drain holes.
P4020037 by
Mike McCrea, on Flickr
A 3” wide hole fits all sorts of things, canteens, coffee cups, beverage coozies.
P4020039 by
Mike McCrea, on Flickr
Friend Joel keeps two Sigg bottles of fuel for the little motor on his square stern in one console, and his canteen and coffee cup in another.