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PostPosted: July 16th, 2015, 2:26 pm 
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Joined: April 21st, 2004, 10:52 am
Posts: 1166
Location: Near Ottawa ON
Hey Tinboatman, I have the same motor. Took me to Moosonee when I hurt my hand and couldn't paddle. How have you got it mounted?


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PostPosted: July 17th, 2015, 9:03 pm 
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Joined: July 24th, 2005, 2:22 pm
Posts: 35
Hi Krusty the motor mount is homemade. Flat bar aluminum with a double thickness 3/4 plywood glued and screwed together for the pad. A couple of bolts running vertical down thru top pad, bar and smaller bottom pad hold them together. Bolts washer and a wing nut hold the bar on the gunwale.
The canoe was bought new 36 years ago and has served me well. The motor is 31 years old and the gearcase seals have started to leak. Of course parts are nonexistant so I have to ensure the case is drained every fall and fresh oil added so it won't frezze and crack. Hopefully both will outlast me ( I'm looking at 70 in the rearview mirror) and the next owner can deal with the issue!


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PostPosted: July 18th, 2015, 9:31 am 
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Joined: April 21st, 2004, 10:52 am
Posts: 1166
Location: Near Ottawa ON
Wandering off topic, but yup, I have the 1.4hp 6500 model with a neutral gear my brother brought new in the late 70's.
Had to take the lower unit apart on that Missinaibi trip and refilled it with vegetable oil - no problem. It's currently over-heating - hope my wizard mechanic friend can revive it. I think mine uses an old Tanaka carb. which are still available. Here's a site that has a copy of the manual:

http://www.jvangurp.com/cruise_n_carry.html


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PostPosted: February 3rd, 2021, 3:46 pm 
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Joined: February 1st, 2021, 3:36 pm
Posts: 1
canoefishing wrote:
Thank you very much for the advise so far everyone. I am starting to learn the canoe "lingo" and what to look for in a stable canoe. While I think the sports pal might just be the best option I am still worried about how that thin aluminum will hold up, I am careful with my gear and don't abuse it in any way. I'm just thinking about those un seen rocks that we all know do pop up from time to time.

Would you guys also have a look at another canoe I have been researching. It's called the Paluski Adirondack 14, it is a double pointed canoe with a 39" center beam, flat bottom and supposedly has a keel also. It's made of triple layer poly and weighs about 75 pounds.

Whatever canoe I buy won't be going on 1km portages so lightweight is going to take a back seat to durability and stability. It doesn't have foam sponsons like the sports pal but I think I could buy an aftermarket motor mount kit or just make one. What do you guys think?


You need to define these terms a little. “Fibreglass” means “Glass-reinforced polyester.” It is better referred to as GRP. Typically, it is woven glass cloth in a variety of forms and weaves, or CSM, chopped strand mat, reinforcing a resin, typically isophthalic polyester.
Basically, in engineering terms, it is a reinforced plastic. So is concrete (cement reinforced with steel) or timber (lignin reinforced with cellulose, which occurs naturally in cylindrical objects called trees.)
Polycarbonates do not come under the definitions of “reinforced plastic.” It should be considered really as a resin without the reinforcement. It has myriad applications, has good impact resistance, and typically is injection molded.
Injection molding something as big as a boat, even a canoe or kayak, is a pretty specialized and capital intensive operation, although kayaks in polyethylene, a much more malleable material than polycarbonate are common.

Polycarbonates can be extruded, cast in sheets, made in bottles, and are useful for all sorts of things, except boats, and probably some other things. Worryingly, they do not degrade readily and will be with us, once made, used, and discarded, for a long time.
It is not a suitable material from which to build a boat, certainly not when compared to the tried and proven materials that are readily available.


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PostPosted: July 2nd, 2021, 9:15 am 
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Joined: June 28th, 2001, 7:00 pm
Posts: 2069
Location: Freeland, Maryland USA
My earliest fishing was done in an aluminum canoe. It was all I had, and it worked, but there were downsides, mostly noise and catching on rocks in shallow streams. Or sometimes lakes when I just didn’t see that barely submerged piece of granite.

The Raddisons and Sportspals I’ve seen all use VERY thin aluminum, no way I’d take one down a shallow bony stream, or wedge the stern ashore in a fishing hole.

A plastic (Royalex or poly) canoe in the 14 – 16 foot range would be more suitable. A flat bottom needn’t be 38” to 40” wide to manage standing, even by unbalanced me. Something flat bottomed 36”-ish wide, depending on length, would paddle better than a pumpkinseed “sport” canoe.

I recently converted a Royalex Old Town Pathfinder (14’ 10” x 36”max beam, 57lbs) to a dedicated fishing canoe. Bought used for less cash than my monthly beer expenses it is damn near perfect for my needs.

1995 hull, the Royalex and vinyl gunwales were sound, but stored on the ground for too many years all of the brightwork, seats and yoke, were rotted to hell. Six months later, post conversion, dirt is still falling out from under the inwales. But the brightwork was an easy fix, and since I wanted a solo fishing canoe I could install things exactly where I wanted them.

ImagePC130013 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

That canoe now sports assorted fishing geegaws; rod holder storage clips, Scotty base for trolling rod holder, even a measuring scale stamped in 2” increments across the utility thwart.

ImagePC200038 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The utility thwart has one weird feature that have proven invaluable for fumble fingered me when it comes to managing hooks and lures; a narrow wedge of minicel contact cemented to the thwart as hook keeper. I do not like loose hooks and lures, especially dropped “Oops, where did it go?” in the bilge, and that simple scrap has proven a valuable fishing accessory.

ImagePC260035 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I can’t leave well enough alone when it comes to comfort, so, as usual, foot braces, knee bumpers, heel pads, strap yoke, and pad eyes for a back band.

ImagePC300017 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The now-badged “Fishfinder” is 31 ½” wide at the inwale edges, so I needed wide knee bumpers (yoga blocks) to hit my preferred 23” knee braced spread when seated, and if I stand a bit bowlegged I can press my calves against those cushions. I am not a frequent stander, but having two extra points of contact, not just my feet, has been a stability help.

Fully “dressed” the converted FishFinder is a very functional fishing canoe

ImageP1010015 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

And if I want to put up a simple downwind sail and troll that Scotty base mount serves other purposes.

ImageP1010011 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I really can’t leave well enough alone, and there are some things I want on all of our open canoes; partial spray covers, no-sewing DIY’ed from heat sealable Packcloth, for a less open sheerline in wind and rain.

ImageP3250015 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

There are dozens kayaks and SOTs designed and cunningly OEM outfitted for fishing. There are not many (any?) canoes with factory fishing accessories and outfitting. Like the old saying “You don’t buy a Jeep, you BUILD a Jeep” I think the same holds true for outfitting a fishing canoe.

The Pathfinder was a pocket tandem. Something like the identical design flat bottomed Old Town Camper (16’ x 36”, 59lbs) would work as either a tandem or bow backwards solo. Some of OT’s poly Discovery canoes are similarly flat bottomed, which makes standing easier. The Disco 158 is 15’ 8” x 35 ½” and flat bottomed. And weighed 80 freaking pounds, and oil canned notoriously. Ya can’t have everything, but I wouldn’t want one of those; wide flat bottoms and poly didn’t mix well.

No idea what might be more commonly available in flat bottomed RX/Poly canoe in Canada, must be something.

And easy alternative to installing a permanent utility fishing thwart in any canoe with a reachable thwart is as easy as buying two thick plastic cutting boards. Not my design, but this is clever as hell and simply wing nuts around a thwart when needed. The couple friends that use them catch plenty of fish.

ImagePA040044 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The “secret” to that KISS design is making the bottom rod handle slot narrower than the top, so the rod is held at a / angle off either side.

Bottom looks like this.

ImagePA040043 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Still learning, I may drill a hole for needle nose or hemostats in my utility fishing thwart.


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