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 Post subject: Paddle Making Thoughts
PostPosted: March 25th, 2005, 7:59 am 
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Location: Mapping Wabakimi PP!
I am wondering about what others have done to the tip of their paddles to protect them. I have epoxied mine with three coats and feathered back to the blade but was wondering for those who have glassed, how does one glass a curved tip and cover the both sides with one piece with out creating folds or wrinkles?

I have seen the term bulbed from Turtle Paddles and was wondering what this was if anyone knows.

Has anyone ever used carbon fibers and epoxy to the tip instead of glass and how did this work out for you?

Thanks!

Boneli

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PostPosted: March 25th, 2005, 9:02 am 
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Joined: December 29th, 2002, 7:00 pm
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Location: Bancroft, Ontario Canada
I just used two separate pieces of glass after sanding down the thickness slightly. The end grain absorbed some epoxy, but after several trips the wear in that area was allowing water in again, so now I don't bother sealing end grain except when revarnishing. The water seems to evaporate out quickly on a dry day. The straight cherrywood paddle I've done this with has had the fiberglass in place for at least ten years with no problems with ongoing rough use.

The bulbed feature I'm not sure about, but maybe it refers to greater blade thickness at the tip, so that there's more abrasion resistance there, while the thinner blade midsection allows for greater flexibility. The Nashwaak Cruiser paddles have this designed in.

Rick

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 25th, 2005, 9:06 am 
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Joined: April 22nd, 2003, 8:26 pm
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Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Greetings;

In order to prevent the tip of the paddle from splitting / chipping.
After I have rouphed out the paddle shape, I cut, with a hand saw (smaller to larger width cut) a slot down the center line of the paddle tip.
The slot will measure a width of about 1/8 - 1/4 inch by about 3/4 inch deep.
The slot will run the circumference of the paddle tip (a "C" shape).
I then duct tape the slot, all but the top (about 1/2") an opening.
In a sense you make a mold.
I then pour epoxy into the mold / slot.
As it settles add more epoxy (1/2 - 1 hour).
Takes a day or two to cure.
Finish off your paddle as you like.

I've never used cloth on my paddles.


Good luck,
Doug

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 25th, 2005, 9:50 am 
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Location: Mapping Wabakimi PP!
Doug wrote:
Greetings;

In order to prevent the tip of the paddle from splitting / chipping.
After I have rouphed out the paddle shape, I cut, with a hand saw (smaller to larger width cut) a slot down the center line of the paddle tip.
The slot will measure a width of about 1/8 - 1/4 inch by about 3/4 inch deep.
The slot will run the circumference of the paddle tip (a "C" shape).
I then duct tape the slot, all but the top (about 1/2") an opening.
In a sense you make a mold.
I then pour epoxy into the mold / slot.
As it settles add more epoxy (1/2 - 1 hour).
Takes a day or two to cure.
Finish off your paddle as you like.

I've never used cloth on my paddles.


Good luck,
Doug

Now that a cool idea, making a mold.

What if you want to go back and repair a tip? Could you mask a mold and feather sand it the blade?

Thanks!

Boneli

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 25th, 2005, 9:54 am 
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Joined: August 27th, 2002, 7:00 pm
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Location: Geraldton, Ontario Can
I don't worry about the tips...I just finish the entire blade with a couple of coats of epoxy and then 3 or 4 of varnish. I make a new paddle every year, last year's paddle becomes my spare, to be used for pushing off, stuff like that. A good hardwood blade will hold up quite well if you don't use it for a pole or a walking stick.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 25th, 2005, 11:17 am 
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Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Never had to repair the tip yet.
But I would probably sand it down a bit.
I would also make it a "B" paddle and use it as an excuss to make another one.
I've made about a dozen now and am still using the second one I ever made.
I do not fiberglass / epoxy any othe part of my paddles.
I have, primarily, only ever used hard woods (cherry, ash and walnut).
I think of it as cheap therapy, for presently having two teenagers.


Doug

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 25th, 2005, 11:26 am 
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Joined: December 20th, 2003, 9:11 pm
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Location: LONDON ONT
Hey doug ever think of putting on a paddle making course ? I would love to watch and try to make one. I am not too far away. and have some tools of my own. how about it :clap:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 25th, 2005, 11:45 am 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
I have an old cherry paddle with long blade and narrow tip that has been rebuilt because of persistent cracking of the tip. After rebuilding I glassed the bottom 5-6 inches (I think it was with 2 pieces of cloth). Then I built up an epoxy tip using tinfoil as a mold. I hung the paddle with the end resting in the tinfoil then filled the tinfoil cup with epoxy. After it hardened I scraped the tip down to the shape I wanted, sanded and varnished. Now I do the epoxy tip mold thing on all my paddles and it has worked well. Sometimes the epoxy wears down or gets chipped on my whitewater blade so I just sand and add more every season.

I've also used duct tape, styrofoam, and a wood form lined in saran wrap for molds. I'm thinking next time plastercine lined with saran wrap. That way I can reuse it for all my paddles.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 25th, 2005, 3:34 pm 
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Location: Mapping Wabakimi PP!
Tommy wrote:
I have an old cherry paddle with long blade and narrow tip that has been rebuilt because of persistent cracking of the tip. After rebuilding I glassed the bottom 5-6 inches


Tommy, have you ever thought of tipping the blade in the carbon fibers similar to your Huron's bottom?

Boneli

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"Preservation of our waterways comes from those with little voices, big paddles, strong backs, weak minds and thick hides with which to ignore the bug bites." Organizer of "The Wabakimi Project"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 25th, 2005, 5:46 pm 
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Joined: October 11th, 2001, 7:00 pm
Posts: 162
Location: Sudbury, Ontario Canada
wow! I was just visiting this site to post a question regarding treating the tip of the paddle blade :o I decided to look in the newest posts section first and look what i found.

I tried cutting the fiberglass cloth into all sorts of different shapes to no avail. I wish I could cut in a slot into the paddle tip for a mold but i don't think i have the tools necessary for this, I am doing most of this with a hand planner, spokeshave and crooked knife.

Any ideas on how you could cut a slot with hand tools?

Also should I varnish then expoxy the edges or expoxy then varnish?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 25th, 2005, 6:24 pm 
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Location: Huntsville, Ontario
TALLTIMBER wrote:
Hey doug ever think of putting on a paddle making course ? I would love to watch and try to make one. I am not too far away. and have some tools of my own. how about it :clap:


Doug, I'll second TallTimber's motion. I'd love to see how you go about making a paddle. I'm also in London. If you're up to it, your beers are all on me.

-Martin

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 25th, 2005, 7:26 pm 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
Boneli, the bottom of my canoe is graphite/silica/epoxy, not carbon fibre. The only similarity between the two is black colour. The purpose of the graphite is mainly as lubrication so rocks don't gouge the hull - they don't "bite" like they do with varnish. Not really what you need for a paddle tip. Its the silica that provides a harder finish than plain epoxy or epoxy/graphite but when you add it to epoxy it becomes cloudy, not clear like straight epoxy. And plain epoxy is hard enough for most paddle tip requirements.

Lukey, always epoxy then varnish.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 27th, 2005, 9:21 am 
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Location: London, Ontario, Canada
A "Free Beer", in London?

Doug

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 27th, 2005, 3:09 pm 
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Location: LONDON ONT
Well what about it I might be able to add a beer from my wifes stock!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 27th, 2005, 4:27 pm 
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Joined: August 7th, 2002, 7:00 pm
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Location: Duluth, MN USA
I've only made one paddle, a laminated ash/cedar bentshaft. I glassed the whole blade after lining the tip with a thin strip of ash. I don't remember folds or wrinkles being a problem, I probably cut slits at the edges of the tip and folded the cut cloth back on top of each other.

Next paddle I'll make will be all cedar except for the tip and grip. My dad made an all cedar bentshaft and glassed the blade. It's remarkable durable and very light.

andy


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