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Where to buy PC7 epoxy?
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Author:  yarnellboat [ May 26th, 2005, 5:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Where to buy PC7 epoxy?

PC7 epoxy has specifcally been recommended to me for Royalex repair; for structural repairs/filling gaps, PC7 is better than the 3M urethane adhesive (#3532) that I normally use.

The local Canadian Tire and Home Depots have a variety of 2-part epoxies in putty and syringe, but I'd like to get the "real deal" PC7 unless somebody else has better ideas?

Thanks, Pat.

Author:  LBowers [ May 26th, 2005, 5:32 pm ]
Post subject: 

Hi,
I had never heard of the epoxy so I was curious. This is there web site http://www.pcepoxy.com/index.asp and they list Homehardware as being a supplier. Usually if the store doesnt stock it they can bring iit in from there main depot. I hope this helps.

Larry

Author:  yarnellboat [ May 26th, 2005, 6:26 pm ]
Post subject: 

Hmmm. Somehow I managed to Google the heck out of PC7 epoxy without getting their site. Thanks Larry. Home Hardware, conveniently located almost at my corner, does carry it, but they didn't think they had any and I had to make them dig. Got it.

P.

Author:  yarnellboat [ September 19th, 2005, 3:40 pm ]
Post subject: 

Tried the PC7 epoxy for Royalex repair in a ww solo boat, and it did not work as well 3M urethane adhesive. The cracks returned within the boats first run or so. Too brittle.

More here if interested in interior stress-cracks in Royalex:
http://www.myccr.com/SectionForums/view ... 766#138766

P.

Author:  Krusty [ August 4th, 2006, 7:20 am ]
Post subject: 

I took a couple of divets out of the bottom of my boat on the Dumoine a few weeks ago. I think it happened on land - sitting on a little sharp rock with a heavy pack in it and someone moved it.
They are roughly circular, about 5 cm across, with a shallow, smoothly concave shape going about 1 or 2 mm down into the foam.
Can these just be filled with the 3M epoxy, or does it need fiberglass?
If it needs fiberglass, can I just cut a piece to fit the hole and epoxy it in, or should it overlap?

Author:  DougB [ August 4th, 2006, 8:03 am ]
Post subject: 

Krusty, if you've got a large gouge in the boat (ie: 5 cm diameter hole) I would recommend a glass patch. If you've got a deep scratch that's 5 cm long, I would suggest filling it with expoxy. I've used Kevlar, Fiberglass, melted ABS in acetone, PC7, plastic cold weld, JB weld and a crappy tire epoxy too (my Ocoee has a little bit of all of the above when it comes to patching). However, for filling gouges I prefer to use something called Max Bond low visocity epoxy from polymer products. It's similar to the West System but cheaper. I use it to wet out Kevlar but I also found it works great to fill in gouges - much better than PC7 or JB Weld. I just mix it thicker and let it start to set before applying.

Author:  Krusty [ August 4th, 2006, 8:22 am ]
Post subject: 

DougB wrote:
Krusty, if you've got a large gouge in the boat (ie: 5 cm diameter hole) I would recommend a glass patch....
... for filling gouges I prefer to use something called Max Bond low visocity epoxy from polymer products.... I use it to wet out Kevlar but I also found it works great to fill in gouges..... I just mix it thicker and let it start to set before applying.

Thanks for the help.
So I would fill-in the hole with some thick Max Bond, then lay on a piece of fiberglass wetted down with thinner Max Bond overlapping the edges by 2 cm?
I have some thin fiberglass I picked up at Trailhead. Do I need multiple layers of it?
Any idea where I can get Max Bond in Ottawa? Trailhead was out-of-stock of whatever product it is that they sell.
I'm heading out to do the lower Madawaska today. Would it be sinful to neglect the repair until my return? (Understanding that if I hit just the right rock in just the right way I could puncture through the inner wall).

Author:  DougB [ August 4th, 2006, 8:54 am ]
Post subject: 

If you're patching over it, any of the products can be used as fill. I prefer the expoxy I described for scratch gouges that are not going to be patched. I order Max Bond online, I don't know if or where it's available locally.... sorry! Most recommend multiple layers of glass, but a lot of my fiberglass repairs were in the field so only one or two layers were applied. I used Kevlar (woven not felt) on my last repair and I only used one layer. If you're heading out today you might not have time to let a glass repair set depending on what type of resin you're using anyway...

Author:  Krusty [ August 4th, 2006, 9:01 am ]
Post subject: 

Thanks DougB. I appreciate your patience.

Author:  yarnellboat [ August 4th, 2006, 12:04 pm ]
Post subject: 

Update on my repairs of inside cracks in Royalex -

I've gone back to using the 3M adhesive, but I've also tried using PC11 2-part epoxy putty in a separated tube, and it also seems reasonably flexible (and is cheaper).

I haven't used any JB Weld, but I'm guess the PC11 is something like the JB Weld epoxies, though I suppose I'm just basing that on the similar packaging in tubes.

Instead of patching over the repaired cracks with cloth & epoxy, I've glued on, using the 3M adhesive, a thin (1/16th or 1/32?) piece of ABS plastic. The ABS was easy to find at plastics stores, cost me about $30-$40 for a 4'x8' sheet or something like that, and I was able to just cut the sheet with a knife, especially if I warmed it up first. With the flex of ABS it should last much longer than a glass job, as the repairs are right in front of my saddle and between my knees where the hull takes a lot of flex/abuse. As bonus, I made a bigger deck plate out of the leftover plastic.

On one small repair, on a plastic d-ring base where straight adhesives/epoxies were re-cracking, I also "wetted out" (not that anything really gets "wet") glass cloth with the PC11 epoxy and it seems to have worked.

Depending on where on the hull your divots are, i.e., how much flexing will be happening there, I'd consider the ABS plastic as an outside repair too, Or maybe glass on the outside and ABS support on the inside? But that's probably overkill unless the hull has been torn open.

However, first, out of my curiosity, I would just try straight-up PC11 to fill the divots, so that I could and see how it holds up in there without a patch.

If you have multiple divots, you could do a "taste test" and use different products in each divot to see how they last.

I'll bet any on of 3M, PC11, JB Weld, Max Bond or similar would hold up well for a long time even without a patch.

G'luck. P.

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