Raka (
http://www.raka.com/Kevlar.html) carries 9 oz, stitched, biaxial kevlar in 64" width, which is what you want for at least one of the kevlar layers. They also sell s-glass. The biaxial kevlar has its fibers running at +45 & -45 degrees which will result in a stronger laminate if used in conjuction with standard weave (0/90 deg.) s-glass.
Personally, if I was going to build a kevlar canoe I would build a wooden strip plug just like John W. mentioned. It will be less work and a much fairer surface to mold the kevlar hull on. You don't necessarily have to make a beautiful looking plug, cheaper wood can be used and the finished stripper hull painted.
Also, my personal fabric layup would be outside s-glass(6 oz), hydrid kevlar/carbon layer (5.8oz), 9 oz biaxial kevlar, and the inside of the hull layered with s-glass (6oz). I would add some reinforcing layers in the bow & stern. I would use (4-6 lb density) klegecell, divinycell, corecell, or airex for the rib system . Google up Souris River Canoes to get an idea of what I'm suggesting.
Also, It's HIGHLY recommended to use epoxy resin with these fabrics. The resulting hull wil be very tough and light.
See if you can get an out of print copy of "Boat Builder Manual" by Charles Walbridge. The copy I have is a 5th edition from 1982. It's dated, but still has some very good instructions on the process of canoe & kayak hull building.
BTW, Texalium is aluminized fiberglass and has absolutely NO carbon it. It's, stiff and heavy - not recommended for light weight boat building.
Just my opinion - Bob