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PostPosted: September 29th, 2005, 7:33 pm 
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Location: Toronto
I am having a problem shaping the inside stems for my ranger. I have found that the only way to get a fair line from the molds to the 1/8" center line is to shave down the actual thickness of the stem mold.

Is this normal?
Do I not know how to use a fairing batten?


I have no problem shaving the mold, however, I am concered that if I screw up the stems too bad I may have to make new ones. If I shave the mold with this prevent me from properly steam bending new stems?

Any suggestions?

Thanks for the help.

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PostPosted: September 29th, 2005, 8:53 pm 
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It's normal, I had to trim a little off the corners of the stem molds in my Huron, in order to get the inner stem to match the lines that the cedar strips were taking on. Be sure to re-apply tape, or wax, on the newly exposed mold material before gluing the strips to the stems, otherwise you run the risk of the strips bonding to the mold, and difficulties later on when releasing the mold from the hull.

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PostPosted: September 29th, 2005, 10:11 pm 
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OK, thanks, thats what I thought.

Next Problem....


I accidentaly Lost 4 inches from the overall length,, ie the distance between station 0 and both station 1s is 10" ...

Is this going to seriously affect my boat its a 15' (well 14' 8") prospector...

I am at the stage where I start stripping tommorow, is it worth tearing down and re-setting the molds?

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PostPosted: September 29th, 2005, 10:28 pm 
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Quote:
Is this going to seriously affect my boat


Come on Dan, where's your sense of adventure? Just think you might end up with the only 14' 8" Prospector in existence and you'll only have a little farther to paddle farther on really l-o-n-g trips... :lol: :lol: :lol:


Sorry, couldn't help myself..... :wink:


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PostPosted: September 29th, 2005, 10:41 pm 
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But will it be a REAL prospector?????

Beacause authenticity is sooooooooooooooooo important. thats why we have like 500 threads on it right?

Seriously though... and physics guys outthere? with my wetted surface coefficient change the prismatic variable and make the thing sink or paddle like a bath tub?


just say no, and make me happy, long words that i do not understand will impress me with your knowledge and make me comfortable with accepting your opinion with blind faith. :lol:

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PostPosted: September 30th, 2005, 8:14 am 
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Dan,

Quote:
...make me happy, long words that i do not understand will impress me with your knowledge and make me comfortable with accepting your opinion with blind faith.


Here goes... the actual change in the discombobulation coefficient caused by the 4" reduction implies that the sine function variable present in the length-width relation will be significant, and at least quantifiable in a testing tank where environmental and hydrodynamic parameters are controllable to a precision of no less than...

OK, enough of that... hope it worked.

:)

The shortened Ranger should be a little lighter, turn a little more easily and paddle a little faster. The downside is that it might not track straight ahead well enough for your paddling style, and the amount of room and load carrying capacity will be decreased. The study plans booklet shows that the Ranger's optimum capacity is 150-450 pounds, so if you're planning on carrying loads at the upper limit, the shortening might not be an improvement. OTOH, if you're planning on going solo and light much of the time, maybe a good thing.

If I were building a Ranger, I'd build it as designed, unless I needed to make a change along the lines above. Or pick another design that more closely matched what I was looking for. If the Ranger seems like the perfect match for your intended purpose, it probably wouldn't be too much trouble to shift the stations to their proper spacing. The rest of the project adds up to much more work and you might as well do all that based on a good design and a correctly-constructed mold.

Steve Killing took the lines from a Chestnut model, so if you want your canoe to be faithful to the original, there's also that when deciding what to do.

Hope this helps,

Rick

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PostPosted: October 4th, 2005, 4:11 pm 
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Dan,

I may be a bit fussy but, I would (and have) adjust the end form lengths to match the plan. (it's easy enough to do, just add/tack on a 2" or so wide piece of wood to the inside edge of the end forms. it won't take much work.)

My reasoning is that the curves of the boat are designed to be "fair" with the given spacing, if you only change the spacing at the ends, the shape will be changed also and likely be not longer fair, ie the taper on the ends will now be 'blunter" then designed.

If you want to change the overall length, you should adjust the spacing of every form a little to maintain the fairness.

Dan


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