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PostPosted: November 25th, 2005, 11:29 pm 
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Joined: April 14th, 2004, 4:26 pm
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Location: Toronto
Howdy All,

Just thought I'd share some pics of my Ranger under construction.

Image

Image

Image

Peace.

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PostPosted: November 26th, 2005, 12:09 am 
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Looking good Dan, keep the pic's coming.

You'll be dragging out the spokeshave soon I see......... :wink:


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PostPosted: November 30th, 2005, 2:02 pm 
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Nice one.. :clap:

Is that inside?

Where did you get the kit? I would love to build another I am just waiting for the right time.

I swear I have seen that on another post/board.

Keep us posted.


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PostPosted: November 30th, 2005, 4:41 pm 
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Nice!

Are you using bead and cove strips or the tapered edge?

I'm debating which I want to try for my first stripper.


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PostPosted: November 30th, 2005, 5:43 pm 
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Joined: March 23rd, 2005, 1:41 pm
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Location: Grand Marais, MN
Dan,

That has to be one of the best centerlines I've ever seen. It makes the one on my kayak look like a wet noddle. Nice look boat.

JEM,

I've used both, and like the bead and cove route better. It's more work upfront, but it seem to keep the strips together better. There's a new router bit coming out also for 1/4" strips. It's covered in depth on the Bear Mountain Builders form.

Bryan


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PostPosted: December 1st, 2005, 12:05 am 
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Thanks Bryan!!!!


If you only knew how much trouble I have had with that center line :doh: :doh: :doh:

Filling in the bottom has been a nightmare. Every piece I have to bring out the chisel and cut it to shape. Its good to know that only I can see the problem.

I have even asked for help over at bearmountainboats.com


I am using B&C strips. I bought the whole kit from Noahs. I figured I will be having lots of problems on the first boat so I want to make sure that at least the materials are good.

The kit was pretty expensive, but I moved back in with my parents to build this. With the moneyu I save not paying rent downtown and food I could built 6 boats.

Next boat I will make totally from scratch. Maybe.

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PostPosted: December 1st, 2005, 7:28 am 
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Joined: September 5th, 2001, 7:00 pm
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Location: Bracebridge, Ontario Canada
Looking good Dan. Are the strips from Noah's decent quality? I'll be building the same boat this winter, was thinking of getting the strips from BC but the shipping is ugly!!


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PostPosted: December 1st, 2005, 3:08 pm 
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If Canadian Canoes is still around I would recommend them over Noah's for the quality of the strips. I know they use the same suppliers for the wood, but the machining from Canadian Canoes was more consistent. Noah's also buried part strips inside a bundle on us.

Checked CC's website and it says they still have strips available:

http://www.canadiancanoes.com/

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PostPosted: December 1st, 2005, 3:16 pm 
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Location: Geraldton, Ontario Can
I ordered strips once and i would never do it again. Really, it is not hard to make your own if you can access a table saw and a thickness planer, and you will save hundreds of dollars. If you go to any of the smaller lumber yards in your area, you will probably find enough clear cedar for 2 bucks a board foot or less. That will give you enough cedar for about 150 bucks ...what are pre-made strips going for now? Probably at least six hunderd bucks plus shipping for an average prospector style canoe. It takes me one day to go from boards to bead and cove strips...something to think about


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PostPosted: December 1st, 2005, 3:22 pm 
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RHaslam wrote:
I ordered strips once and i would never do it again. Really, it is not hard to make your own if you can access a table saw and a thickness planer, and you will save hundreds of dollars. If you go to any of the smaller lumber yards in your area, you will probably find enough clear cedar for 2 bucks a board foot or less. That will give you enough cedar for about 150 bucks ...what are pre-made strips going for now? Probably at least six hunderd bucks plus shipping for an average prospector style canoe. It takes me one day to go from boards to bead and cove strips...something to think about


Who makes a good table saw blade for making the bead and cove strips?


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PostPosted: December 1st, 2005, 3:54 pm 
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There are a variety of thin table saw blades, but i have had my best luck with a regular carbide blade, nothing special. Lots of people are concerned about the amount of wood they waste, and band saws have been touted, but I have never been able to set up a fence system on a band saw large enough to accomodate big boards. I don't worry about the waste as I have had good luck getting cedar cheaply. It is dirty though, you'll need a good mask and goggles too.


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PostPosted: December 1st, 2005, 5:30 pm 
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Location: Mounds View, Minnesota US
By now you probably have it done but FWIW, when I fit the 2ed side strips, I mark a reference mark on tape in the middle of the strip and on the hull.
I then fit one end at a time, marking the length and taper and using a sharp plane shave it to fit, this gets it close. The final fitting is with sandpaper. Once both ends are fitted, I do a dry check fit to make sure it's not too tight or (hopefully) loose. (I have had to make a new strip when I've removed too much material) Then I apply the glue and quickly get the strip in place, as the glue expands the wood and if you don't hurry you can't get it in.

If I'm carefull, this process results in reasonable nice joints.

Dan

"Filling in the bottom has been a nightmare. Every piece I have to bring out the chisel and cut it to shape. Its good to know that only I can see the problem."


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PostPosted: December 1st, 2005, 6:13 pm 
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Yup, If I had a table saw, a planer, and someplace to use them it would be easier to make my own strips. I had to talk my parents into giving me the basement for a year as it is.

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PostPosted: December 2nd, 2005, 2:37 pm 
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RHaslam wrote:
I ordered strips once and i would never do it again. Really, it is not hard to make your own if you can access a table saw and a thickness planer, and you will save hundreds of dollars. If you go to any of the smaller lumber yards in your area, you will probably find enough clear cedar for 2 bucks a board foot or less. That will give you enough cedar for about 150 bucks ...what are pre-made strips going for now? Probably at least six hunderd bucks plus shipping for an average prospector style canoe. It takes me one day to go from boards to bead and cove strips...something to think about


Ya know Rob, while I agree that if you already have the equipment the incremental cost of setting up the jigs to make the strips is worth it, I think you are miscalculating on the costs for a one time project. For example, while Canadian Tire and Home Depot sell table saws in the $100 - $150 range, I've checked the blade wobble on them and it is pretty bad. You're looking at $350+ for a table saw alone. Then even a cheap thickness planer is $200 - $300 and I expect the same sort of quality issues, so you are looking at $400 for a thickness planer. Then you have the router and bits. Haven't done much quality comparison on routers yet, but call it $100+ at the low end and another $50 for the matched bead and cove bits.

Are you actually getting 18 - 20 foot lengths of clear cedar in Ontario or are you piecing it together from shorter lengths? I understand that the shorter lengths are fine structurally but a big chunk of what I pay for when building a cedar strip is the aesthetics.

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PostPosted: December 2nd, 2005, 3:22 pm 
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Well, I didn't suggest buying the equipment, I suggested that if one had "access" tp some equipment. It is often easy to find a friend who has a good wood shop for a one time use. 18 to 20 foot white clear cedar is very uncommon up here. 8 to 10 feet lengths are fairly common. I'm not so sure about those asthetic arguments....after building nine canoes now, I don't really see the difference between staples/non-staples, full lenght,/scarf joint or butt joints. There is certainly very little functional difference. Plus when milling your own strips, full length boards are damn hard to work with. Try running the edge of a 20 foot board on a jointer to get a perfect edge...it's tough...anyway, if you have access to machines, the savings is usually $500 or more, plus you can mill all your gunwales and trim.....I would say the average canoe costs me $700.00 to build, which is probably a 1000.00 less than a kit, which is a good chunk of change, in my opinion.


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