|Canadian Canoe Routes
|Kevlar, f i n a l l y
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|Author:||siren1 [ April 21st, 2006, 11:51 pm ]|
|Post subject:||Kevlar, f i n a l l y|
Cap'n sprung for a new (used boat)
snapped it up this eve . .without a roof rack!
(used my tennis shoes for cushions)
Evergreen Prospector, 16', white Oh well
WOOD TRIM/appointments throughout!
I HATE plastic
I HATE metal
Wood feels dry . . . what should we grease it up with guys?
WhatshouldIsend the Cap'n to get at Lee Valley??Hunh?Hunh?
(he wants to varnish it . . I said nayyyyy . .we'll ask the Goombahs)
(so excited, weighs a wisper, already for LaVerendrye or whatever the hell his name is)
|Author:||yarnellboat [ April 22nd, 2006, 12:55 am ]|
That clap so for the tennis shoes, we did that this summer too! Tennis shoes & lifejackets.
This one is for the boat:
Steel wool and tung oil on the decks and gunwales. You could let him varnish the thwarts.
How'd you talk him out of plastic?
|Author:||Richard Todd [ April 22nd, 2006, 7:22 am ]|
Watco oil is slightly better than tung oil, if a little harder to find. Steel wool is a good idea too, though one advantage of oil over varnish is that the former can be put on with next to no surface preparation.
|Author:||Jwinters [ April 24th, 2006, 6:02 pm ]|
One note Siren. Leave the steel wool in the hardware store. Go to a legitimate yacht supply store or order on-line some bronze wool.
Little steel particles might fall on your boat and cause rust stains.
If you can't get bronze wool use a 3M abrasive pad (the fine stuff).
Treat your boat well and it will treat you well.
Everyone has a favourite oil. You will get better life out of marine grade teak oil. Almost any manufacturer. Why teak oil? Because it lasts longer as it is made ot hold up under tropical sun and saltwater and will not pick up dirt like some cheaper oils.
Have fun with your new boat.
|Author:||Dan. [ April 24th, 2006, 9:02 pm ]|
But does it have Italian Viking bubbles?
http://www.myccr.com/SectionForums/view ... 50&start=0
1.‘remembers’ the canoe
.....but knifes through the water like a rowing scull
2. make it light, so light that I can heft it mid ships and let it balance on
.....my shoulder, walking down the street, to the river
3.make it long and sleek , give it l i n e,
....exaggerate . . . a Ferrari
4.invent an innovation, say-
....the ribbon of air bubbles- trapped under planks, V i k i n g ship.
....guide the forces, soundless glide.
5.choose a material that defies explanation, incorporate colour
. . . perhaps
6. I’ll need a new paddle ‘to match’ the boat
7. we’ll haggle over the details l a t e r; such as weight of occupant, paddling habits, seating (I like cane . . only), trim do-dahs . . . a stripe?, a clever emblem.
8.I have questions and thoughts about keels, manoeuvrability and
....subtle weigh shifts, i d e a s
9.and of course a name . . .
....S1 ? S i r e . . . but I’m getting ahead of myself
.....with e n t h u $ i a $ m
10.Launch date: to pose in the ‘Flotilla’ on Canada Day, 2006,
My my.... have we lowered expectations? If I remember correctly, I beleive that the prospector was my suggestion. Do I win a prize?
|Author:||siren1 [ April 25th, 2006, 8:20 am ]|
|Post subject:||Ohhh, so he's still alive|
My my.... have we lowered expectations?
'fraid nay Danny-boy
I SAID Cap'n $prung for a boat
Siren is a Woman of Independant means and ideas,
her boat is still 'on the boards' as we say in the trade
If I remember correctly, I beleive that the prospector was my suggestion.
We always had a Prospector, Prospectors go places,
now this one is lighter for po' ol' Cap
Do I win a prize?
and what are you doing blinking in the sunshine
I thought YOU have a boat to build- hmmm?
Siren skipping off to the Chandlery to get some TEAK OIL
p.s. Pay attention U-Boat and Wild Man- The Lord of Moving Waters has spoken and Siren likes the best
|Author:||yarnellboat [ April 25th, 2006, 11:58 pm ]|
Ask and ye shall receive - I just give advice, no guarantees expressed or implied.
There are many ways to skin a cat. Given a choice between the best and the easiest, I'll usually skin my cat with whatever's already in the shed.
I do have some of those foam pads for sanding, and they are very nice to work with. But if I can't get brass wool at the corner, it's of no use to me!
p.s. I haven't looked at any of it, but a search for "varnish + oil + wood" results in several threads - it looks like about 17 pages of discussion on gunwale care. Happy studying!
I didn't search "cleaning + gelcoat".
|Author:||SGrant [ April 26th, 2006, 12:23 am ]|
I certainly would not use steel wool on a water craft. Even brass wool will "raise the grain". A soft sanding block and some fine sandpaper should do quite nicely. Or a palm sander if you're in a hurry.
|Author:||Jwinters [ April 27th, 2006, 7:38 am ]|
I empathize with Yarnellboat. Sometimes getting the "right" thing is tough and you do the best you can. A good substitute for Bronze wool is wet or dry sandpaper that you can get at your local automotive supply store. Unlike wool It clogs but if you keep flushing it with solvent it will do a good job.
Brass wool works too but when I was in the yacht building business it was not readily available in finer grades. Not sure if that is still the case. The trick to avoid "raising the grain" is to rub the wood smooth (sandpaper or wool) and then wet it with water adn let dry. Then sand very lightly again. The water raises any broken wood fibers. The final light sanding knocks them off. Then rub in the oil rubbing lightly between coats until your heart sings. I think the great furniture makers of the 17th centrury used pumice and lots of cheap child labour. An antique restorer I know said they rubbed the oil finish in by hand with no cloth rags and that is why it is so difficult for us to duplicate the old finishes.
Not sure how true that is but it makes a good story.
You can get Bronze wool from the online marine stores like Boatersworld.com.
$3.99 for a package that should last you for many years years.
|Author:||siren1 [ July 23rd, 2006, 11:31 pm ]|
|Post subject:||Kevlar- Bah!|
I don't like the Boat.
So much for all that anticpation.
The Evergreen design, the so-called Prospector
in all it's detailed cherrywood finery = a thumbs down.
I can't believe the material compromised the form and when I find my tape measure I'll see what the hell happened.
Ye olde Trailhead Fibreglass version of a Prospector
has more room for those bracing moves Cap'n puts me through.
Sitting in the bow of the Evergreen was positively claustrophobic.
The Appalacian is lovely, held itself well in the wind for us
even though my Mate in the stern continues to favour one side.
|Author:||Steve Galehouse [ July 23rd, 2006, 11:35 pm ]|
Grumman uber alles.
|Author:||Krusty [ July 24th, 2006, 7:38 am ]|
Normhead, a couple of years ago, wrote:
My wife finds the front end a bit tight but tolerable. I'd hate to see a big guy up there. I've heard if you do have weight in the bow paddlers seat the front end dives.
http://www.myccr.com/SectionForums/view ... prospector
Try moving the seat back. Just a few inches will make a big difference.
Spend time in it, keeping the internal dialogue positive. You'll get more used to it over time.
It ain't his fault.
|Author:||siren1 [ July 24th, 2006, 8:42 am ]|
|Post subject:||that boat|
Thanks for the link
Try moving the seat back. Just a few inches will make a big difference.
that did cross my mind and a discussion ensued maybe it's position
has to do with a Solo user rather than a tandem situation.
Cap'n defended the manufacturer with:
"They are supposed to know what they are doing"
well O-kayyy then
(the question authority byline comes to mind )
also, they recessed the seat
don't like that either(looks like they were getting carried away with the wood detailing again, cherrywood will do that to you)
I'm with Donny, who sticks his skinny little a - - on a piece of two-by-four
straight across for me too.
|Author:||pknoerr [ July 24th, 2006, 9:44 am ]|
Siren, siren, siren.... boats come from manufacturers outfit for a what the manufacturer believes will suit an assumed team of paddlers. That doesn't mean the location is right for you. So you adjust seats to fit in a canoe. I've moved nearly all of the seats in my canoes both for comfort and to get different handling characteristics. They don't need to be static, and probably in many cases shouldn't be. In my mind canoes should be fit to a team of paddlers, as opposed to something you buy off the shelf one-size fits all. I realize that your canoe was pre-owned, but that just justifies moving the seat to suit your needs more. In addition, you might find that simply some additional outfitting, like foam kneeling pads could dramatically alter your comfort in the bow of the canoe.
|Author:||siren1 [ July 25th, 2006, 8:19 am ]|
|Post subject:||now I know|
Siren, siren, siren....
So you adjust seats to fit in a canoe.
In addition, you might find that simply some additional outfitting,
like foam kneeling pads could dramatically alter your comfort in the bow of the canoe.PK
sound of tape measure recoiling.
no, no, and no.
No amount of seat relocation and foam padding would come anywhere's near the comfort/performance characteristics of:
Yea Olde Canoe vs. Kevlar job
I read in Krusty's dredging report about how fast this Evergreen was.
I believe ours was too.
The olde canoe has a particular nuance, the tumblehome is
quite bowed (curvaceous)
so my thighs fit snug (cur . . . oh never mind)
The Evergreen is a wider boat too but not where it counts.
Olde boat 'looks' longer, sleeker.
Evergreen seat too low; +1.5" and a bunch of other incremental things.
I am at a loss.
I know now why Cap'n shed a tear when the tow truck dragged
the dead Volvo wagon away.
That beat up, yukky light green, bashed up keel covered with goo
as old as we be married boat is still a far better looking craft-
noble, handsome, with a proven performance record.
what to do . . .
Make a copy?
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