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PostPosted: February 28th, 2008, 1:04 pm 
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Joined: June 22nd, 2004, 4:45 pm
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Location: Canmore AB
The canoe: Novacraft 16' Prospector Rlite, aluminum gunnels.

The OEM seat is a sliding (sort of) model. The rails that the seat 'slides on' are notched to hold the seat front to back but my wife wants a fixed seat that doesn't wiggle.
I was thinking of using the OEM seat itself (which is not full width) and bolting/screwing two appropriate length cross pieces to the seat and then hanging the seat from them.

Questions:
Where to fix the seat front to back
what height should I hang it
What hardware to use to hang seat and where to get it if it's not readily available at a hardware store.
By adding potentially two more holes on each gunnel will it be weakened?
Anything else I should consider with this plan????

thanks;
Hugh

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"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
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PostPosted: February 28th, 2008, 3:05 pm 
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Joined: December 29th, 2002, 7:00 pm
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Location: Bancroft, Ontario Canada
Quote:
Questions:
Where to fix the seat front to back
what height should I hang it
What hardware to use to hang seat and where to get it if it's not readily available at a hardware store.
By adding potentially two more holes on each gunnel will it be weakened?
Anything else I should consider with this plan????


On the drawings for a 16' Chestnut Prospector, the front edge of the bow seat was about 40 inches from the midpoint. The sliding seat may have provided some idea whether the seat should be further away or closer in. Further away means there could be less room for feet and knees, with less comfort, but that depends on the size of the paddler.

Carriage bolts in galvanized steel shoud be available at Home Depot to hang the seat from and also in brass and stainless steel at marine shops. There should be enough space underneath for a kneeling paddler to allow feet to slip in and out easily and not get caught, about the same number of inches as the bare foot.

The new bolts shouldn't weaken the inwales... the mount will be stronger it the bolt head is closer to the edge of the hull-inwale joint, if the inwale is especially wide (less leverage to tear away the inwale from the hull).

Because of the high ends curving the sheerline in the Prospector, the seat will probably be more comfortable if it's level with the water along the axis of the canoe, so the front bolts might have to be adjusted down a little longer to drop the front edge down a bit. The seat needs to be level when the canoe is in the water, not with the front edge tilted higher up, which will be the case if both front and rear bolts are the same length. Some paddlers prefer the front edge tilted forward a little, dropping the front edge further down than level.... anyway, good luck.

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PostPosted: February 28th, 2008, 10:12 pm 
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Joined: March 23rd, 2006, 11:21 pm
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Location: Burns Lake, BC
Hey Hugh, placement of seat could be calculated by weights of paddlers if desired. (stern paddler's weight) X (distance from leading edge of stern seat to centre of yoke) = #. Now take that number and divide it by the bow paddler's weight, that will equal how far to place the bow seat for balance.

I would say height is probably around 9-11". Depending on person and footwear.

Hangers would best be bought at a boat shop. Otherwise, I've used everything from hex to carriage bolts. They worked.

Another option might be to rivet on a wide piece of 90 degree angled plastic to the bottom of the gunnel. That is, if the style would allow. That way you wouldn't compromise the top of the gunnel.


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PostPosted: February 29th, 2008, 11:27 am 
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Location: Bancroft, Ontario Canada
Canoeheadted, that formula sounds good in theory but it might not work on the ground... actually on the water.

I've tried it and the results placed the bow seat too far forward for my taste. Most symmetrical tandem paddlers seem to prefer the trim a little stern-heavy, for greater tracking and efficiency. When I c-clamped in a piece of plywood at the calculated position, results were not that great because of the above. There was less comfort for the bow paddler because there was less room with the bow seat that far forward.

Maybe a temporary seat could be tried with c-clamps at 40 inches and at the calculated location from the formula, I'd be interested to see if Hugh gets the same response in canoe performance as I did.

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PostPosted: March 24th, 2008, 6:16 pm 
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Joined: June 22nd, 2004, 4:45 pm
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Location: Canmore AB
OK after a bit of procrastination I went to Undercurrents in Cowtown and bought a new Bow seat and fibreglass seat hangers These hangers are full width and I will have to cut them so that the bow seat is either flat or slightly tilted forward when on the water. Once that is done I'l have to rivet them to the side flange.of the alu gunnels. This negates having to drill holes in the top of the gunnels for hangers.
I think we've got the front to back distance nailed. We just set the seat to where my wife normally sits and marked the spot. I should really find a Nova Craft with a fixed seat to see how close we are to OEM distances.

BTW (OEM seat height was 12" to the top of the seat. Quite high.) We jury rigged the old seat to approx 10" and she said there was a marked sense of stabilty from the lowered seat. Should have done this sooner.
The 10" height still allowed my size 11's to slip under the seat and back out without any feeling of being jammed.
I'll take pics of the procedure.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks for the comments

Hugh

_________________
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
M.T.


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PostPosted: March 25th, 2008, 11:47 am 
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Joined: December 29th, 2002, 7:00 pm
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Location: Bancroft, Ontario Canada
The only thing I could add is if the Prospector is going to be paddled reversed from the front seat going solo, the seat's front and back should be the same distance from the bottom and not tilted forward... ie. you wrote:

Quote:
These hangers are full width and I will have to cut them so that the bow seat is either flat or slightly tilted forward when on the water.

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