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PostPosted: May 9th, 2008, 1:27 pm 
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I've got an older 14' fiberglass canoe and the gel coat has a few spider cracks and some good gouges and is super faded. I am going to epoxy everything up and sand smooth.

My question is... if I scuff up the gel coat with a 60 grit sand paper can I use a leveling primer right on top of it or do I have to completely remove the gel coat before I can prime and paint.

Also what's the paint of choice? I was thinking a one part epoxy paint.

Any help would be great!

Thanks


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PostPosted: May 9th, 2008, 2:07 pm 
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see
http://www.myccr.com/SectionForums/viewtopic.php?t=29560

below

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PostPosted: May 10th, 2008, 12:31 am 
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Location: Burns Lake, BC
Hey Tummyson, use a dremel (or not) and clean out any deep scratches. Then 60 grtit sand with an orbital. Use some filler (I use epoxy, so I use microballoons) to fill in the cracks. Sand again. Paint with primer suited for fiberglass. Top coat with 2 coat of marine grade enamel paint.


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PostPosted: May 10th, 2008, 9:53 am 
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Location: Bancroft, Ontario Canada
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Also what's the paint of choice? I was thinking a one part epoxy paint.


Sico's floor paint is epoxy-fortified and is a tough, scratch-resistant enamel... available at Rona for <$20. I actually found it easier to get a good finish with than the more expensive marine enamel, Interlux Brightside.

Those bright canoe colors that people often like (red has been reported to actually make a canoe perform better) may not be available in the Sico enamel... Tremclad does come in brigt colors, and has been said to be a durable canoe paint as well. I haven't tried it.

Primer shouldn't be necessary, if the deep scratches have been filled and loose gelcoat removed. The gelcoat will need to be washed with detergent to remove any oils, rinsed well, and then uniformly sanded to give the new paint some tooth to bond onto.

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PostPosted: May 11th, 2008, 3:52 pm 
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Canoeheadted wrote:
Hey Tummyson, use a dremel (or not) and clean out any deep scratches. Then 60 grtit sand with an orbital.


I was planning on using my Dremel with a brass bristle wheel to clean out the gouges. Will a vibrating palm sander work the same as an orbital or is this an excuse to go and gt a new tool?

I like the idea of the Sico paint. I might try that route as the canoe is for camping trips with myself and my two sons under 5 and we'll be mostly on little lakes.

On the Tremclad idea, can you get a smooth finish with tremcald or will it always have that orange peel look? Is it possible to wet sand tremclad?

Thanks for the info guys!

Mike


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PostPosted: May 11th, 2008, 9:35 pm 
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I think I'll try the Tremclad route. More of a color selection. Check out this link Tremclad can be wetsanded and this guy painted some Beetles and a 69 Charger with Tremclad http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76863

Thanks.


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PostPosted: May 12th, 2008, 12:23 am 
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Mike, I'm sure either sander will be fine.

Let us know how it turns out.


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PostPosted: May 12th, 2008, 8:03 am 
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On the Tremclad idea, can you get a smooth finish with tremcald or will it always have that orange peel look? Is it possible to wet sand tremclad?


I haven't used Tremclad so can't comment... it sounds like you're going for a mirror-smooth finish if you're trying to eliminate orange peel. My old canoe has hundreds of minor scratches and it'd be a lot of work to sand them all out in order to get that kind of finish.

I don't bother with that since it's an old canoe and will get scratched again in no time anyway. A foam roller used to apply the enamel leaves some orange peel and the slightly pebbled finish creates a nice semi-gloss finish that helps hide the minor scratches underneath. A high gloss like the spray cans would create would show every little scratch clearly unless those were sanded out.

A mirror-smooth finish might need some kind of primer that can be sanded down so that it's dead smooth - a lot of work for an old canoe, IMO, but it depends on how scratched your canoe is to begin with.

Sanding between coats will eliminate surface roughness that any dust settling onto the paint creates and does help make for a smoother final finish.

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PostPosted: May 12th, 2008, 1:28 pm 
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I think I'll just prep really well and use a foam roller. I just didn't want the canoe to look like my 3 year old son did the painting, kind of like an old tractor that has has a dozen coats of paint slapped on with a brush.

I'll post some pics when I'm done.

Mike


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