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PostPosted: May 9th, 2013, 4:56 pm 
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Joined: May 17th, 2010, 10:28 pm
Posts: 59
Hi folks:

I searched, but was unable to find a specific answer. Perhaps there is none. This is also my first attempt at this sort of task on my own!

Using a combination of the Souris River and the Red Rock Store approaches to hull varnishing (they are essentially the same, but SR recommends using a woolen roller vs. a foam roller and feathering), I am ready to apply one last thin layer of varnish.

I am using a 2-part poly-urethane by Epifanes (recommended by Noah's). 2 thin coats already down.

I ran my hand over the entire hull and felt tiny burrs across pretty much the entire surface (when I picked up the boat some 4 years ago and ran my hand across it on the trailer awaiting it to be unpacked, it was smoooooooooth).

Then I took a 320 grit on a block and gave the entire hull a quick once over. Having done so, the hull now feels smooth. But one last layer should go on, and I would like that sparkle to come back...

My question is:

How can put down once last layer that will come out factory smooth?


My last coat was done under in a fairly controlled environment so I'm not sure dust was the problem, and, I used a foam roller and then when over with a foam brush and smoothed out any bubbles/runs/streaks.

Having sanded the hull so lightly following the 2nd coat, upon closer inspection, the hull appears to have a sort of orange-peel look it - generally smooth, but has tiny pores throughout...

Am I being too picky?

Any tips?


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PostPosted: May 9th, 2013, 5:28 pm 
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Joined: August 27th, 2002, 7:00 pm
Posts: 2560
Location: Geraldton, Ontario Can
Generally speaking, more coats and more sanding=smooth. I redid one of those souris river boats using marine paint. It was quite rough on the bottom on places, and the weave of the cloth showed through, so I just kept re-applying until things smoothed out. But i ain't no expert, just some guy with a lot of paint.


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PostPosted: May 9th, 2013, 10:50 pm 
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Joined: January 22nd, 2003, 7:00 pm
Posts: 647
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario Canada
I am no expert and have little personal experience in re-finishing SR hulls but I recently saved the link to the site quoted below. Hope it helps!

http://www.redrockstore.com/canoerepair ... /index.htm


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PostPosted: May 10th, 2013, 6:55 am 
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Joined: February 10th, 2008, 4:41 pm
Posts: 327
Wet-sanding works. Get some wet sandpaper it is the black stuff in fine grits and sand the hull with water. The applied finish has to be good and dry or it will peel and roll.
http://www.bearwoodcanoes.com/

Article on painting canoes.


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PostPosted: May 10th, 2013, 9:45 am 
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Joined: September 8th, 2006, 7:11 pm
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Location: winnipeg
bimber wrote:
Am I being too picky?


Yes. Also, the orange peel texture will make the boat go faster, like a golfball, or an offshore racing boat. I expect that with the custom speed finish you applied you will get to your campsite up to a second earlier after a long day. i could be quite wrong, though, as laminar flow at low speeds always confused me.

I have used penetrol, which they call a paint conditioner. It makes paints and varnishes thinner/less viscous, which might help if the issue is the foam roller putting tiny bubbles in the finish. This is just a guess, though.


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PostPosted: May 10th, 2013, 12:45 pm 
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Joined: May 17th, 2010, 10:28 pm
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Its not the hydro-dynamics (is that the right term?), this is far sillier - a smooth, spotless finish just looks nice...for the first few days of the season at least.

I will try thinning the varnish as was suggested to me by Noah's. I'm just relectant to buy 1 quart of thinner for $28 when apparently I need about 10ml for the last coat of varnish.

Do the thinners and varnishes last long if stored in tight-sealed cans?


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PostPosted: May 10th, 2013, 7:11 pm 
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Joined: February 10th, 2008, 4:41 pm
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You dont need some expensive thinner. Look on the can. If it says clean up with mineral spirits then use that as the thinner. Thinners last forever if tightly capped. Varnishes last only if no air is allowed to touch them. Small container or some inert gas sprayed into gap at top. Lee Valley sells it. I would use mineral spirits. I would also use cheap varnish. Mike Mcrea did tests and posted here. Cheap won.


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