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PostPosted: September 24th, 2023, 1:16 pm 

Joined: June 28th, 2001, 7:00 pm
Posts: 2824
Location: Freeland, Maryland USA
This project started out in the Shop Visitor thread. Anyone considering adding stem loops or lining holes to a canoe would never find it buried there, so I posted it as a separate topic. ... 15#p448761

I much prefer through-hull stem loops, for a variety of reasons; lining, rescue, almost a necessity with spray covers.

We wanted to add stem loops to the Kevlar Wenonah Sundowner, either near the cutwater through the float tanks, or in the space above the tanks. In either location a flange was needed. The flanges are as simple as ½” conduit box adapters (big box hardware electrical aisle).

ImageP9090009 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The outside of the flanges were embossed “Carlon ½” E996D PVC”. A little sander action removed that raised lettering, but grey was not a complimentary color.

ImageP9100004 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Black looks much better.

ImageP9100005 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The Kevlar on the sides at the float tank is very thin, and being enclosed there was no way to epoxy around the neck inside. The material above the float tank is much thicker, and the exposed neck protrusion would be useful to bead around with G/flex. To be ready for either choice I cut the necks on one set of four box adapters down to 3/8”, to make it easier to poke/pull the tubing through with the flange neck inside the float tanks.

To “thread the needle” inside a float tank it helps to cut the tubing end at a sharp angle before blind poking. Pull it through the far side flange with some strategically placed epoxy or vinyl adhesive on the tubing, let that set up and cut the excess tubing off the outside with a razor blade.

ImageP9170002 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

If passing through the float tanks a piece of vinyl tubing (5/8” OD, ½” ID, plumbing aisle) fits perfectly snug sealed in the flange with G/flex or vinyl adhesive.

ImageP9090014 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

On canoes without float tanks, where the flange necks are accessible inside the hull, wider tubing can be sleeved over the necks. RX Appalachian; we plugged the OEM stem loop holes near the deck plates and added new ones near the cutwater. (Should have painted the flanges first. I did so later with a small paint brush)

ImageP5260014 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

A short piece of garden hose was sleeved over the necks during installation and epoxied in place.

ImageP5260016 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

To cut the holes in the Kevlar Sundowner we used a 7/8” hole saw. ... tails&th=1

On a Royalex or Poly canoe a spade bit does fine. After some discussion of the pros and cons we elected to drill the holes above the float tank. In that location the box adapter necks inside the hull are exposed and can be G/flex beaded for extra sturdiness, and the hull there is much thicker that at the float tanks, at least three layers of Kevlar; the plug we removed was ¼” thick.

ImageP9220017 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

We wanted the flange epoxied the hull, not to vinyl letters, so the offending vinyl stickers were heat gunned off. The hull material is now the seagull vocalization “KE AR”. Holes drilled.

ImageP9220001 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

With the Sundowner resting on its side we (Papal “We”, Joel had departed) mixed up a dab of G/flex 655.

ImageP9220002 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

G/flex painted around the fuzzy Kevlar rim. There is a folded piece of newspaper stuffed inside the stem to catch any epoxy drips.

ImageP9220003 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Then a little G/flex painted a little around the rim, and around the neck of the flange at hull thickness.

ImageP9220005 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Push the flanges in place. There was enough epoxy to squeeze out forming a bead around the flange rims.

ImageP9220007 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Covered with wax paper and a small sandbag weight, walk away.

ImageP9220009 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Next morning, I flipped the Sundowner over and epoxied the flanges in the other side. While it was resting sideways I ran a bead of G/flex around the neck of the flange on the inside. Couldn’t do the upper flange neck yet, gravity and epoxy.

ImageP9230012 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Getting thickened G/flex beaded around the backside of the neck was a job for right-angle paint brushes. Found in the same aisle as a left-handed monkey wrench. OK, I heated the plastic handle briefly with a touch and bent it to shape.

ImageP9230015 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Walmart Craft Aisle. Dang, a 30 pack of disposable craft brushes was 97 cents last year. Still, 5 cents apiece, worth it for a throw-away brush and wee epoxy work. I used four total, Joel owes me 20 cents. ... om=/search

Let that epoxy set up, turn the hull to the other side and epoxy the two remaining necks inside the stems.

ImageP9230017 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The SUND NER is looking mighty fine. And more functional.

ImageP9230019 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Joel can tie his own rope loops to length and knot preference. Maybe a Triple Fisherman’s Knot; friend Willie can visit and tie one for us.

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