Hi...
As mentioned by FritzA, the round discs, properly called "Dipsy Divers" by Luhr Jenson, are what we've been using for years. They come in several sizes, select the smallest, and can be set to run to the left, centre or right of the canoe to avoid spooking fish. Loosen off the tension screw to detect light bites and you're set.
Another alternative is the "Pink Lady", again by Luhr Jenson. The advantage of this type is that unlike the "Dipsy", which has to be brought in to be reset in the event of a strike or snag, the "Pink Lady" just needs a bit of slack to reset. It also runs a bit deeper, but only straight down the centre.
An ideal setup would be one of the new no-stretch braided or fused lines from the rod to the diver and then a 5'-8' mono leader attached to the diver (8lbs). Drag a floating minnnow (read Rapala) through the depths and you're in business. Spoons are ok, but they sink when the canoe stops and are more likely to snag.
Because there is a fair bit of drag, I have a cast aluminum screw-on rod-holder that I fasten to my thwart on my paddling side for extended trolling. A rod carefully place by your feet also works fine and is easier to get at.
Using snap weights attached to the main line, as has been mentioned, is also a good way to go. Tie a barrel swivel a few feet above the lure to prevent the snapweight from sliding all the way to the fish where it's leverage will make the hooks easier to throw.
You can be extremely accurate in depth with these systems after some experimentation and a knowledge of how much line you have out and how fast you're travelling.
Another alternative is the bottom walkers used on the walleye circuit. Dragged along the bottom with a floating minnow bait will get you into the zone, but the likelihood of snagging has made this a last choice for me. With practice and total concentration (read bow paddler) it should be very effective.
I'm a devoted Rapala-man. I've caught 90% of my fish on thse great baits, but that's just probably because I use them 90% of the time. The long gold/black, silver/black or the yellow/silver have always been my favorites. Big spoons are also good. Cleos or Williams are good choices. Finish off with a touch of fish atractant and go. Does it help? Well, it was the only difference between a buddy and myself and I caught more fish. Doesn't hurt!
Finally, as I have mentioned in other posts, if you are serious about going fishing from a canoe, not just canoeing with a rod hoping for a fish, then a fishfinder is VERY VERY helpful. I have one and while I don't go searching for individual fish like the bass and salmon boys do, I do use it to keep a constant eye on the depth. I'm always amazed when I paddle over a familar lakes with a sonar. Waters that I had guessed to be 100' deep may be only 15' and vis-a-versa. New portable fishfinders are small and reasonably light as well. It's very rewarding to develop an understanding of the bottom on your favorite lakes, both for interest sakes and for the fish it helps you catch.
One note however... I must admit that using a sonar takes away somewhat from the overall experience I'm looking for when I go canoeing. Every moment spent staring at a little monitor is a moment that could have been better spent soaking in the wind, clouds and shorelines. Before long you may find yourself looking at it every few seconds, only to check the depth of course, but all too often nonetheless. If you use a canoe to catch lakers, then yes a sonar is the way to go, especially on unfamilar lakes. If you go canoeing and hope for fish, settle back and enjoy the day, eventually you just might be lucky enough to feel a tug on your line.
Hope this helps...
Chard
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