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 Post subject: Strength of repair?
PostPosted: March 1st, 2007, 11:00 pm 
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Joined: September 8th, 2006, 7:11 pm
Posts: 921
Location: winnipeg
I patched a couple of small holes in an old royalex boat.

I used west epoxy, and regular E-Glass.

I trimmed/sanded down the 4cm crack (I believe it was caused by some outfitting that concentrated the flex in one spot right in the middle of the bottom), then covered it inside with a small patch, and then a larger one (4"X6" and 8"X10") and outside with three layers small, medium, and larger. Between the two, to fill a bit of a gap, I just stuffed in some loose fibre strands with the resin.

The repair cured in the right time (not to hot/cold mix), and seems to have adhered very well. I don't want to break it, so I used a rubber mallet. It took the hardest hit I could deliver with this mallet. I sanded it, then spraypainted it.

So, the question is - prognosis, will this boat still be a durable enough for regular whitewater use?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 2nd, 2007, 1:01 am 
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Joined: March 23rd, 2006, 11:21 pm
Posts: 1118
Location: Burns Lake, BC
Hey Mr. Canoehead18. I've done several repairs on a Royalex Explorer(damaged from cold cracking and partial wrapping), and these repairs have lasted 3 years without a problem. One sided patches probably aren't as strong as a two sided patch with a centre connection(like patching a running crack). Another thing I heard is to put small to large patches on the outside of hull, and large to small on the inside of hull. As I understand this results in a stronger less flexible patch. Also, try to feather out the patch within the outside layers(avoid the foam core when possible). We've banged our boat around quite a bit and the patches have been great(no signs of damage). So, yes, I think your boat is ready for some action.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 2nd, 2007, 1:39 am 
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Joined: June 20th, 2001, 7:00 pm
Posts: 3588
Location: Toronto, Ontario Canada
Cracks in the bottom like yours are the hardest to permanently fix especially if you are accustomed to the utilizing the flexible nature of royalex to help you over the rocks.

I have a vertical crack near the gunnel which has help up for a long time just with epoxy.

One thing I've heard suggested is to drill a small hole at each end of the crack to prevent it spreading under stress. Drilling holes in the bottom of your boat takes a minor leap of faith I suppose, but a 1/8" hole should be pretty easy to seal. If the crack was only on the inside the hole needn't go through the outer layer.

Maybe someone else can comment on this theory?

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"What else could I do? I had no trade so I became a peddler" - Lazarus Greenberg 1915


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: March 2nd, 2007, 8:48 am 
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Joined: July 9th, 2001, 7:00 pm
Posts: 1305
Location: Cambridge, Ontario
It sounds like you've done a solid repair. With the right materials. I think it should hold up.

We put an 8" crack mid way down the hull of a Royalite Dumoine on the Pukaskwa river. We did a fire side repair with two or three layers of woven fiberglass and a cheap polyester resin. We were more conservative running rapids but it held up fine.

There was a crack under the saddle of my Ocoee and one layer of woven Kevlar seems to be holding it together fine.


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 Post subject: Starburst
PostPosted: March 3rd, 2007, 9:06 am 
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Joined: September 8th, 2006, 7:11 pm
Posts: 921
Location: winnipeg
DougB, I saw your post in classifieds for the Starburst. I wondered if it was a typo, or a pun that you wrote "Starbust". In either case, it sounds like we have the same boat. I picked mine up for $200 and it looked like it had been run over by a truck. I did the repair mentioned above, as well as a couple smaller ones on the stem, and replaced the gunwales. now I just need to add seats and it's ready to go.

It was a bit of work, but I really like the shape of this canoe. I think fixing a good shape in a strong, repairable material is far preferable to buying an inferior shape/material (disco 174 for example). If I eventually wrap it around a rock, I won't feel as bad as if I paid $1500 for it.

Thanks for the post. wishing you an early spring.


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 Post subject: Roayalex fix
PostPosted: November 8th, 2007, 2:48 pm 
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Joined: November 8th, 2007, 12:45 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Vermont USA
Use Devcon Plastic welder, made of methylmethacralite.Get it at the hardware store.
Using a knife, cut a "v" on the inside of the hull if its a crack or tear.
Plastic welder takes 5 minutes to cure, 10 min to sand. I have repaired 20+ boats with the stuff and they all still float.
Use kevlar instead of fiberglass. glass is too brittle


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PostPosted: November 8th, 2007, 9:03 pm 
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Joined: September 8th, 2006, 7:11 pm
Posts: 921
Location: winnipeg
You mention the Devcon product, and then later you mention kevlar. Is the Devcon a sort of resin/glue that is used in conjunction with glass or kevlar fabrics, or are those two separate ideas (I.e if using epoxy, use kevlar, but Devcon is my first choice). I have a used canoe with a filled in cut that looks like white putty - could this be Devcon?

I know kevlar is stronger, but it was unavailable in my city, it doesn't work well for an exterior because it fuzzes/can't be sanded, and it is expensive to order. I just used multiple layers of glass, and it has held up well through some serious shallow-water creeks. I'm sure it added more weight, though.


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 Post subject: Devcon
PostPosted: November 9th, 2007, 9:52 am 
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Joined: November 8th, 2007, 12:45 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Vermont USA
Devcon is a 2 part epoxy that comes in a dual tube format.
If you make a very small side cut on the outside of the crack on both sides then refill it w/ devcon, you can sand it smooth w/ 600 and 1000 grit wetsand paper, just sand it dry, don't use water. It'll be as smooth as a babies bottom. keep any fabric(kevlar or fiberglass) on the inside of the hull at all times. like you said, kevlar fuzzes. let me know if you have any more questions.


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 Post subject: Sounds good!
PostPosted: November 9th, 2007, 6:50 pm 
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Joined: September 8th, 2006, 7:11 pm
Posts: 921
Location: winnipeg
That method sounds like ti would be plenty strong, and still would provide the slippery smooth surface of Royalex.

I bet it is cheaper than buying west System in small batches too.

Thanks for the tip!


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