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PostPosted: April 20th, 2019, 7:00 pm 
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Well I had intended to edit this down to a good instructional video but somehow screwed up the audio on my web cam so ended up compressing the 2 hours and 7 minutes of raw video into a time lapse just over 6 minutes :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53t4YGFv9Zo

And here is a tour of the finished product.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIpI8TK4D1s

I'll be making another one in the next few weeks at which point I'll do the instructional video.

I came up with this design about 4-5 years ago but donated those first 2 racks to my former Scout troop so had to build new ones at the new house.


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PostPosted: April 21st, 2019, 6:15 am 
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Joined: June 28th, 2001, 7:00 pm
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Location: Freeland, Maryland USA
I make canoe stacker sawhorses in much the same fashion, but just use store bought sawhorse brackets. A couple sets of those are double wide and extra tall; the extra tall so I can comfortably work up inside decked boats. Two wide is more stable than three tall for canoe storage.

I use them when I need extra boat storage inside the shop, and used the two oversized ones a few months ago when I needed to empty the canoe rack before felling a hazardous tree.

http://www.canoetripping.net/forums/for ... canoe-rack

One caution with the low crossbar

[QUOTE=Mike McCrea;n89362] I wouldn’t put a canoe on that low crossbar in outside storage, the gunwales are only 7” off the ground, and in a hard rain mud spatter would splash up at the brightwork ends and hasten bacterial rot. [/QUOTE]

I have repaired/replaced rotting thwarts and yokes on several friend’s canoes that had been stored too close to the ground. Think about how high up the tent rainfly you find dirt spatter splashes after a hard rain, sometimes a foot above the ground. I don’t want that dirt and moisture splashing up and rotting the butt ends of my brightwork.


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PostPosted: April 21st, 2019, 7:28 am 
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Yes I'm aware of the issue of having the bottom canoe that low to the ground - that's why I won't put my wood gunwale canoe down there. But yeah thwarts and seats are still wooden. I'm working on a way to raise it up. One thing I really like about this design is the simplicity of the 45 degree angles. So whatever I replace it with will need to be simple as well.

For me this is temporary until I get a permanent structure in place at the new house.


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PostPosted: April 21st, 2019, 10:29 am 
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Joined: June 28th, 2001, 7:00 pm
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Location: Freeland, Maryland USA
Prospector16 wrote:
I'm working on a way to raise it up. One thing I really like about this design is the simplicity of the 45 degree angles. So whatever I replace it with will need to be simple as well.

For me this is temporary until I get a permanent structure in place at the new house.


As-is would work well for storage inside a building, although I’d tie or strap the top boat down so I don’t accidentally knock it off the crossbar.

Stored outside, even as a two-stacker with a more elevated bottom boat to keep out the dirt splash, I’d be leery of high winds blowing the whole thing over. After having a couple canoes take a wind ride off my storage rack, including an 80 pounder I was sure wouldn’t budge, I tied down all of my boats stored outside. Yes, that happened more than once when I neglected to tie a canoe to the storage rack.

ImageP9131226 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I have used the double-wide sawhorse racks in high winds with canoes tied on, I think the wide /----\ stance helps.

The verticals on that outside rack are tall pressure treated 4x4’s concreted in the ground. The crossbars are carriage bolted 2x6’s, only because I scavenged a bunch of long 2x6’s from a deck I replaced.

They are capped using pieces of plastic pipe with a slot cut out so the boats slide on and off easier. Of course the boats also then blow off easier, but a short piece of rope and a trucker’s hitch resolves that.


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PostPosted: April 21st, 2019, 11:12 am 
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Yeah my old house the back yard was really sheltered so I was not often worried about my canoes blowing around, but at the new place I've already had my 65 lb royalex blow off the back step when it was right up against the house, so I'll be strapping them down from now on.


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PostPosted: April 21st, 2019, 12:51 pm 
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Joined: June 28th, 2001, 7:00 pm
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Location: Freeland, Maryland USA
Prospector16 wrote:
Yeah my old house the back yard was really sheltered so I was not often worried about my canoes blowing around, but at the new place I've already had my 65 lb royalex blow off the back step when it was right up against the house, so I'll be strapping them down from now on.


Yeah, I can’t claim to have a perfect score at remembering to tie boats to the rack after coming home from a trip.

A week ago we were getting tornado watch and warning alerts on every device. While I was getting out flashlights and making sure the basement hideyhole was available I realized that when I put the last canoe back on the rack, tired after a trip, I said “Ehhh, I’ll tie it down tomorrow”

“Tomorrow” had been a week ago. Scrambling outside with ropes in hand wasn’t something I really needed to be doing right at that moment.

Same lessons learned goes for tying boats down on shore in camp. We tied off a half dozen overturned canoes with bowlines to a single tree on a group trip. Next morning a (loaner) carbon canoe had jumped the line; it started as # 3 or 4 in the middle of the canoe splay, and was now right side up and far on the outside, straining at its leash.

I now springline my boats in camp, with the painter lines pulling in opposition,
either \_____/ or /______\.


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