View topic - Another kevlar canoe repair, major rebuild

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PostPosted: September 25th, 2013, 12:38 pm 
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Ah, if you want a school project, then I would lean toward building the new cedar strip. For that I would recommend Canoecraft by Ted Moores as the definitive how to book.

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PostPosted: September 25th, 2013, 1:01 pm 
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I agree with Splake, I have several books on cedarstrip building. Gilpatrick's is for a pretty rough build, Ted Moore's is better. It's a good project for your kids, I build a couple every year with my students.

One last comment on your canoe. if you do rebuild it, it's going to be pretty tight for the three of you for a multi-day trip.


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PostPosted: September 25th, 2013, 1:14 pm 
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The library doesn't have that one but it does have "Building a birchbark canoe : the Algonquin wâbanäki tcîmân" by David Gidmark
I'll check them both out and give them a quick look.

Still hoping to hear from my brothers BIL on the builder, we did part on good terms so I think he will get back to me.


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PostPosted: September 25th, 2013, 1:16 pm 
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While you are at it, check out another one of Gidmark's books, "Canoe Paddles, a complete guide to making your own", co-authored by Gidmark and Graham Warren. A super book with instructions to make patterns. I use this one with my students too.


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PostPosted: September 25th, 2013, 1:21 pm 
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Restoring this canoe, and finding a canoe to fit the three of you are separate issues.

Pick the (proven) design that suits your needs well, and build it or buy it. Restore this family heirloom. Use the former to learn things that will come in handy for the latter. The restored 15'6" canoe may come in handy as a 2nd canoe as I expect you'll soon be spreading the load over 2 canoes - you paddle one, the kids the other, or some such arrangement. An overloaded canoe is not a safe canoe, especially when you're taking your kids out there.
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PostPosted: September 25th, 2013, 3:06 pm 
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Still thinking, but maybe fix this one and then build a bigger one.


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PostPosted: September 25th, 2013, 3:37 pm 
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This is the canoe from the previous post, stretched out to 20 feet. I use it for my three person canoe for ten day trips. Weighs about 75 pounds.
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PostPosted: September 25th, 2013, 6:51 pm 
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That's about where I'd like to be. I would still like to rebuild the kevlar as I imagine sometimes it will be just me and the boy.

Is that a design from Ted Moore's book?

We belong to two Library's, but don't use one much as it seems it never has what we want. But what do you know ...they have Ted Moore's book!
I'll pick it up on the weekend.

Quote:
Gilpatrick's is for a pretty rough build

Why would that be? does Moore have a better build procedure? Better design?
Educate me on this.


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PostPosted: September 25th, 2013, 7:54 pm 
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You'll see once you have a look at both books. One of the main differences is the use of internal and external stems. Gilpatrick doesn't use any stems. I have built canoes both ways, and I much prefer using stems...it gives a much neater and finished look. I believe it is stronger as well, but others might debate that. Gilpatrick's book shows kids rushing through the process with glue everywhere and straight strips, without bead and cove. Again, I have built both ways, and much prefer using bead and cove strips. Many of these terms will be familiar to you once you flip through the books. However, there is no right or wrong, build whatever pleases you. The Gilpatrick method would be slightly faster.

Both books have the templates for nice patterns, although you will either have to graph them or blow them up. Gilpatrick has the design for a 20 foot guide model which looks nice. However, you can buy full size templates on line.

The canoe above was designed with plans from www.greenval.com
These are John Winters' designs, modern asymmetrical canoes. Martin Step is the owner of the site, and is a very helpful guy. He got me through my first canoe; I've gone on to build 17 or more since then.


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PostPosted: September 25th, 2013, 11:13 pm 
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Wow... Just had a Homer Simpson "Doh!" moment.
I've always thought "cedar" strip canoe, the cedar is worth money to me, as in I can sell it for a profit.
Never even thought about other woods.

I've got a couple thousand board feet of 2" rough kiln dried basswood and another couple thousand of butternut in both 2" and 1".
Stuff been sitting here for ages, didn't know what to do with it.
I also have a good stash of ash, oak, cherry....no one really wants the ash.


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PostPosted: September 26th, 2013, 6:38 am 
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I really need 16-20 foot lengths of Ash, need Oak for the CCC I'm just finishing. Have to do outwales on the recently acquired 18' Y-stern, hmm, what else... got any clear white cedar?

Shipping to Winnipeg? :o


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PostPosted: September 26th, 2013, 7:09 am 
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Maybe I should keep that under my hat;)

Everything I have would need at least one scarf joint, looks like 12' ash is the best I have.
Also everything I have is rough lumber, so it requires milling.
I imagine I could get longer, but I would have to think I'd be same price as the usual suspects once all is said and done. Like I said woodwork is my trade, so shop rate.


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PostPosted: September 26th, 2013, 7:16 am 
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RHaslam wrote:
Both books have the templates for nice patterns, although you will either have to graph them or blow them up. Gilpatrick has the design for a 20 foot guide model which looks nice. However, you can buy full size templates on line.
.


The plans in Gilpatrick 's book are full size. They are "half" plans so you have to mirror the other half.
It also has the patterns for a paddle, thwrarts and yoke.


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PostPosted: September 26th, 2013, 8:51 am 
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homeschool_canoe wrote:
...
I also have a good stash of ash, oak, cherry....no one really wants the ash.


That ash could be worth a fair bit within the next few years.

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PostPosted: September 26th, 2013, 9:34 am 
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Had a look at Gilpatrik's book...unless he has included full size plans, tje one's in my book need to be blown up...think it's a 200 percent enlargement.


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